Royal recognition for English shoemaker

When traditional English shoemakers Loake were granted a prestigious Royal Warrant of Appointment to the Queen earlier this year, some were a little surprised. No one questioned that the fifth-generation family firm merited the award, they had just assumed they would already have royal approval. That the appointment comes comparatively late in the company's 125-year history is not a surprise to those who know Loake well, however. The unassuming footwear producer has always preferred to keep a low profile, leaving others to aspire to lofty heights while it has concentrated on making shoes. There may be more conspicuous brands but the reality is that Loake are one of the world's leading Goodyear Welted manufacturers. The company estimate that since production first began, they have made more than 50 million pairs. Now, with plans to improve brand awareness and strengthen non-traditional markets both at home and overseas, Loake are ready to step forward and accept credit where it's due. 'We have to recognise that we're competing in a global market in every area of our business', says Andrew Loake, who recently took over the direction of the company. `We have to make more of our strengths.' Set up in 1880 by three brothers, Loake's aim was to provide the most handsome, comfortable and durable men's shoes possible. Today, in an overcrowded market, Loake footwear stands out as a fine example of the quality that traditional skills and a rich heritage can achieve. In many ways, the Royal Appointment couldn't have been better timed. To new customers in the UK and abroad, it is a stamp of authenticity that supports the company's status as a classic brand. More importantly, to the Loake family and staff, it is also a validation of 125 years of hard work. During this time the company have overcome significant challenges, not least two World Wars, a fire that nearly destroyed the factory in between and, latterly, the onslaught of cheap imports that has seen the demise of much of the UK footwear industry. Many companies in similar circumstances have not survived. But Loake have proved, if nothing else, resilient. They have stubbornly refused to abandon their UK manufacturing base, determined to maintain their Made in England heritage. Over the years, Loake shoes have graced the feet of British servicemen, city gents, Olympians and the royal household, as well as celebrities including actors, musicians and DJs. The company have also produced some iconic styles. The Loake Loafer, Loake Royal Brogue and the company's renowned market boot are timeless classics that are either still in production today or have been relaunched following requests for their return. Along the way, the process required to make a pair of Loake Goodyear Welted shoes has changed little. It takes approximately eight weeks and involves some 130 skilled craftspeople, up to 75 shoe parts and over 200 different operations. As one would expect of shoes of this quality, the majority are made from best quality calf leather. In the past, the company used some English calf, but this declined along with the tanning industry in the UK. It is now sourced in Europe, predominantly from France and Italy. Leather supply is not without problems. 'As a European manufacturer, we used to buy from tanneries in a fairly simple way', explains Andrew Loake. 'But now we find ourselves looking for a local material in a much bigger market and we have difficulty sourcing enough of the higher grades. 'Changes in the footwear market have intensified this situation', he adds. 'Production of formal footwear of all constructions - not just Goodyear Welted - is growing, further increasing the competition for quality calf and pushing prices up.' Loake do use other leathers - such as suedes, distressed leathers and exotic skins - when fashion dictates, but the aim is still to concentrate on what the company does best. 'Fashion is now accessible at any price and it is harder to command a premium', says Andrew Loake, 'so we will be concentrating on premium classics.' The best example of this has to be Loake 1880, a collection of elegant burnished calf Goodyear Welted classics where quality and attention to detail is second to none. These shoes are produced using time-honoured, benchmade shoemaking techniques that can be traced back to when the company first started. The introduction of this flagship collection several years ago was a clear indication of Loake's aim to raise their profile and start communicating the strengths of both the product and the brand - quality, creativity and heritage. The increased awareness is already bringing benefits. At home, helped by the trend for smarter tailored dressing and renewed interest in 'vintage' brands, a new generation of wearers are being introduced to the benefits of Loake Goodyear Welted shoes. Overseas, a newly strengthened international team is making the most of Loake's quintessential English appeal. Traditionally the company has focused on sales in Europe and Japan, but business is now increasingly brisk as far afield as Australia and China. Plans are also in place for expansion in the Middle East, Russia and the USA. It may go against the grain, but faced with the intense competition of the global market, authenticity is one of Loake's strongest tools - and with a Royal Warrant behind it, the company are finally finding the confidence to use it.