Soft leather, soft business

It is not so much that anything has changed - although uncertainties were at their height in relation to Iraq - but that the biggest performer in the market, America, is still sluggish. And only a snail's pace behind is Germany, with continuing weak demand amidst economic problems. While footwear continues to perform somewhat better on the export markets, this is only a matter of degree. In the first 11 months of 2002 the handbags and accessories sector (excluding footwear) dropped by 10%. Of the main markets, only the UK, Spain and Russia showed growth. But none of this could compensate for a 16% drop in sales to America. Japan, Germany and neighbours Switzerland and Austria all took a tumble, while Italian consumers turned to lower cost imports. So where are the positives? It seems in handbags fashion is once again favouring leather rather than substitutes. And the softer the better. Kid and calf leathers are the glossy and squashy leather favourites for the season ahead. Consumers want difference and that is embodied in quality trims, quirky shapes and products which appear individualistic in design. Much of the interest is provided in the continuing march of laser etching, folksy finishing - such as overstated stitching and unturned edges - and bright accents which liven up the essentially dull background hues of black and serge grey. According to the stylist trends issued for the fair season this reflects the tangible and intangible. Or maybe it is just that the current climate of uncertainty means that every now and again we need to pinch ourselves to regain reality. Leathers, therefore, vacillate between the ultra smooth and the pitted and scuffed, often in combination. The folk roots theme pursues visible edges, and furry ones at that. Wool is left on - and out - and natural blemishes are encouraged for casuals. The City side of the market is less forgiving, however, with top finishes that are slick and polished. Patents take on a gelatinous feel, frequently in washed out, soft fruit colours, such as strawberry, grape and kiwi green. These are for party pieces as against the dominating greys in sensible day bags But sensible no longer means minimalist. Exteriors feature pockets, pleats and folds. However, overall construction is kept simple and re-kindles the familiar, comfortable shapes such as the hobo and the pouch. Even the hunter style your mother remembers with affection is back, embellished with embroidery and applied panels of trapper fur. Leathers today are finished in a variety of borrowed patterns: ribbed, herringbone and velvet finished splits. Fittings are hand-crafted and oversized in proportion. At least that is true of handbags, not so in shoes where the trend is towards detailed, neatly applied trims. The adjacent Micam shoe exhibition continues to expand and there is more room for overseas exhibitors. For those wanting to maintain an international presence the essential ingredient throughout is individuality. Gone is the coyness about where shoes are made. The materials and manufacture are sourced where they best meet the designer's ideas and while much of this is still synonymous with 'Italian' the march to other suppliers is relentless.