Tanners take trend setting initiative

At the latest edition of Lineapelle, leather itself was kept as natural as possible with grain pattern as well as growth lines very much in evidence. Adornments included feathers, abalone, ivory and flowers crafted from leather. The trend selection area focused on winter 2006-07. The labyrinthine layout meant that the area was crowded with people peering over each other to catch a glimpse of the most innovative leathers. The cramped floorplan was compounded by the black hoardings which made the space seem even smaller and drained the exhibits of any life, energy or excitement. The consensus among visitors and exhibitors alike was that the trend selection area, normally considered an authority on fashion colours and styles throughout the leather industry, was disappointing and unimaginative. The names for colours included the mind-numbing rope, tarmac, grey-green, accompanied by a shade named leather (cuoio). Italy is traditionally considered the home of style and innovation in leather, and this was reflected in the samples on display. 95% of the selected leathers came from Italian producers, with the work of Spanish, American, French and Pakistani tanners also selected. Last October, the trend selection area included a 'cinema' with a large screen where buyers could watch a film presentation about the key trends from the comfort of bean bags. This edition, smaller screens were dotted around the area and were almost impossible to watch due to the amount of traffic. Many visitors hadn't even realised there was a video! The shades suggested by the designers were also less inspiring than previous editions. Tones in each of the four ranges, Sofia, Marco, Ginger, and Luca & Max are very similar with variations on tan, deep reddish purple, charcoal grey and leaf green as well as cloudy white cropping up repeatedly. The ranges were all interchangeable and the sedate colours made the viewer want to hibernate. Nevertheless there were a number of colours which stood out from the pack such as 'rosso di sera' a deep rich mulberry, 'rosa tramonto', a pink with warm peachy tones and 'verde muschio', a mossy green which is stronger and more vibrant than its counterpart 'erba seca'. Inspiration in the halls However, there was plenty of inspiration to be found around the halls both in innovative stand design as well as in the leathers themselves. Tanners from all over the world had created exciting ranges of leather using opulent, stimulating colours and an array of effects from embroidery to laser cutting and even painting detailed murals onto the leather. The season's colours are soft and beautiful tones taken from the cosmetics counter. The natural theme that characterises the season emphasises the aesthetic qualities of leather. Natural wrinkles, growth lines, and grain patterns were very much in evidence. Metallic finishes, last year's success story, were not visible this year. Leather is no longer one dimensional. This year, tanners have been engaged in a quest for 3D effects with attachments such as roses made of leather and braiding. Many tanners used the hair from the hides as a design feature, leaving patches of hair on in certain sections and removing it in other areas. According to the Lineapelle committee, the season's leathers require ecological tanning methods and natural dyes, and heavy thickness of leathers is key. Popular effects around the halls included wrinkled effects and pleating on full bodied hair on hides, embroidery, cuts and engraving. Transparent finishes with light water-based varnishes, and smoky coloured furs also featured. Stripes in antiqued gold were a common sight. Patterns featured urban graphics. D'Alessio Galliano's striking and innovative leathers once again dominated the trend selection area. All pieces are handmade meaning that truly unique leathers can be created for each customer. The company's most popular pieces include rabbit fur combined with leather and silk appliqués. Feathers, embroidery, and sequins were also utilised. Italian tanners ABIP also featured prominently in the trend selection area. Pony skins were especially popular with visitors to the company's stand, and in particular laser cut designs. Footwear Neatness is a key notion in footwear this season. Volumes are squared, with flowing shapes declared 'out'. Soles become wider and thicker. Heel layers will be made of leather and climb up the heel; nailed or fastened in unusual ways, possibly reaching the uppers or soles. Uppers will be made all in one, with pleats and rivets taking a more prominent role. Unusual fastenings created from new hand-finished accessories will replace boring buckles. Plateau heels will be more lively, with new fresh finishes and appliqués, such as chocolate suede with jewelled flower appliqué. Bags Three types of bag dominate the winter season: casual sportswear, luxury and natural. Casual sportswear bags will be wide, comfortable and oversized. Backpack, satchels and bandolier bags will make a comeback. Bags in the luxury theme give an impression of richness with conspicuous appliqués and overlaying of materials. A wealth of brooches and buckles in wood, glass and metals adorn. Size wise, bags will be small and expensive. The natural theme concentrates on larger styles inspired by folk culture and sophisticated colours. Braided leather is used both in bag straps and belts. Bags also have leather fringes. Belts have big chunky showy buckles in silver and gold tones with figures carved into them such as lions, eagles and crocodiles. Large handles and buckles are made of dark wood. In the words of chemical company Synbios: 'In winter 2006, leather dismisses simplicity and turns into something precious, a unique jewel to wear and to be admired'.