The presence of potentially hazardous substances

Addressing the issue of emerging trends, he said: 'In the past few years, buyers of leather and leather products from many industrialised countries have prescribed very strict leather specifications; the content of some substances considered potentially harmful to human beings is severely restricted or banned. Though the impetus mainly emanates from Germany, other EU members follow suit. 'While some of their specifications may be considered far-fetched and scientifically unfounded, when it comes to protection of public health or consumer safety, any member country of the World Trade Organisation is well within its rights to prescribe appropriate norms. 'Many developing countries are worried that such norms may emerge as technical barriers to trade. Aggrieved developing countries can take recourse to the appropriate forum of the WTO. Currently, customers' specifications increasingly insist on either absolute absence (ie below detectable limits) or extremely strict limits for: * Hexavalent chromium * Free formaldehyde * Pentachlorophenol (PCP) * Forbidden aromatic amines Some other requirements under discussion include absence of zirconium sulfate, cadmium, allergic fungicides and bad smell.' Basis of specifications and analysis protocol: Hexavalent chromium Chromium VI has been proved to be carcinogenic mostly to the lungs and nose through inhalation of dust containing this metal. The prescribed analytical standard is the IUC 18 (identical to the DIN 53314). Cr VI is extracted with a buffer solution H2KPO4 under a nitrogen atmosphere and with a colourimetric measurement with diphenylcarbazide. However, the detection limit (3ppm) and accuracy of the method are not universally accepted, especially for dyed leathers. For example, for the EC marking of safety gloves (EN 420) applied in France, the maximum value is 2mg per kg of dry leather, but because of the analytical standard, 10mg/kg is accepted. It is expected that the detection limit will be soon fixed at 10mg/kg and the IUC 18 testing method will be accepted as the EC standard by CEN TC 289. The same value should be applied for safety and working shoes. However, since the process conditions drastically reduce the likelihood of formation of hexavalent chromium, the issue of its presence in leather might not be a serious issue anymore. Forbidden amines Some aromatic amines resulting from cleavage of certain azo-dyes are considered or suspected to be carcinogenic. As per the existing regulation in Germany and the Netherlands for the ecolabel for shoes, and according to the projects of regulation in the EU, Austria, Denmark, France and Sweden, the limit for 18 to 22 aromatic amines in leather has been fixed at 30mg/kg. In the EU, the limit for three amines, 2-naphtylamine, 4-aminodiphenyl and benzidine has been already fixed at 10mg/kg; the analytical method is DIN 53316 (draft IUC 20). The European directive on azo-dyes is expected to be published in a few months. The testing method is also to be improved and will be set up in the new EU norm. Pentachlorophenol (PCP) This chemical, formerly used as a preservative, is classified as toxic for skin and very toxic by inhalation. During combustion of PCP containing materials, dioxins may be formed. Today, it is restricted at 5mg/kg in Germany and the same limit is accepted for the shoe ecolabel. The test method used is pr EN ISO 17226 (similar to IUC 25 and DIN 53313). The detection limit obtained is 0.5mg/kg. The CEN TC 289 will publish the European norm soon. Formaldehyde Buljan referred to the issue of formaldehyde content as being on the brink of misinformation and even manipulation, referring to the paradox of allowing less formaldehyde in leather than in cosmetics. Formaldehyde is classified as toxic for human beings by inhalation, mostly for children during the growing stage. It has been a favoured fixation auxiliary in leather finishing but it was also a component of some synthetic resins used for retanning. Formaldehyde is also used for glazing of furskins. It is restricted in Germany at the level of 50mg/kg for baby shoes (up to 36 months) and at 150mg/kg in other cases. The ecolabel for shoes has a fixed maximum value at 150mg/kg. The test method is EN ISO 17226 (similar to IUC 19, DIN 53315) and during 2002 CEN TC 289 and ISO TC 120 are expected to publish the European norm for formaldehyde. Heavy metals Heavy metals are also restricted due to the customer requirements. For example, to achieve recycling or recovery possibilities with used cars, some northern European car manufacturers prefer to use only chrome-free automotive leathers. Mercury, cadmium and zirconium are also increasingly in the focus. Response of manufacturers For major suppliers of leather and leather products in Europe and other industrialised countries and members of the EU, conformance to these and other emerging standards, concerning consumer safety, is an imperative. However, even in these countries, many consider some of these norms as far-fetched, unnecessary and cost escalating. In countries with economies in transition, until now the industry has been reactive rather than proactive. Their specifications for leather or leather products often do not contain such norms. However, all manufacturers and suppliers have to be aware of the recent trends and norms pertaining to the presence of potentially harmful substances in leather and leather products and ensure that their exports are not negatively affected, especially in view of possible biases that might exist about articles produced in non-OECD countries.