Starting from March 2004, BASF will be changing the way it looks. Important components of the changed corporate design are the new colours and design elements as well as a new logo.

Following a meeting of the AFLAI (African Federation of Leather and Allied Industries) committee at Tanning Tech, held in Bologna in last October. The committee gave its full backing to the next edition of the Meet In Africa event.

An industry workshop held in Brisbane on November 25 provided insight into the impact of the drought on cattle and beef supplies and the feedlot sector over the course of 2004 and how Australia's key beef export markets are expected to perform next year.

The losses sustained by the Canadian beef industry following the discovery of a single cow with BSE in May has amounted to C$2.5 billion ($1.9 billion), according to a study commissioned by the Canadian government as reported in meatingplace.com.

BLC have designed a series of courses, to provide a better understanding of the unique characteristics of leather, product performance, quality and testing. Courses scheduled for 2004 areas follows:

Koch Industries have announced that their subsidiaries have reached a definitive agreement with DuPont to purchase Invista, formerly DuPont Textiles & Interiors, for $4.4 billion in cash. The two subsidiaries are KED Fiber Ltd and KED Fiber LLC. Closing is expected in the first half of 2004, subject to regulatory approvals and customary closing conditions.

Trumpler have completely overhauled and restructured their homepage which can be found at [http://www.trumpler.com]

Despite difficult trading conditions, the Sadesa group have announced that they have now reached production targets for the Far East. The Sadesa group produce around 50 million sq m per month and the majority of the leathers are destined to the Far East market.

Richina Pacific's plans to tap into the increasing potential of the Chinese automotive market are well underway. The company's Shanghai tannery is already one of the largest in the world and, when upgrades are completed next year, production is expected to reach more than 61 million metres per year. Of this total, Richina hope that around 30% will be destined for the Chinese automotive market, a market which is expected to exceed US production by 2015.

Otto Specht, manufacturers of professional tools for the tannery trade, are pleased to announce the launch of their website. The website offers visitors a brief introduction and history of the company, an overview of the service the company offers and a complete list of all the company's products, 'from A - agate rollers to Z - zigzag scissors'.

Garden State Tanning Inc, makers of automotive leather, have changed their name to GST AutoLeather Inc. The company say that the new name will position them for a future that will include an increase in production in China. 'GST AutoLeather represents the kind of progressive and innovative identity that we want to carry forward in the 21st century'&bsquo; said Mark D Lecher, president and chief operating officer.

Natuzzi SpA, manufacturers of leather upholstered furniture, have announced that third quarter net sales for 2003 reached US$195.9 million, up 1.2% on the third quarter of 2002. Third quarter net upholstery sales fell to $166.4 million, down 6.3% on the same period of last year, while other sales (including living room accessories and raw materials) climbed 83.2% to $29.5 million.

Bayer said on November 26 that investors are showing an interest in buying the chemicals and polymers division that it plans to create. Despite this, Bayer plan to go ahead with the flotation of the new company by 2005. The temporary name of the new structure is NewCo and it groups most of Bayer's existing chemicals activities and parts of the polymers business, leaving the group to concentrate on healthcare, agro-chemicals and a back end chemicals operation called MaterialScience.

Satra's latest seminars in the Far East highlighting current and new European legislation on restricted chemicals and substances found in some consumer clothing products have proved a major success for the UK technology centre. Satra chemist John Hubbard led the four-venue tour in Hong Kong, China, Taiwan and Thailand, highlighting what is an essential subject for product suppliers to the European Union.

Satra can now test how footwear responds to rising temperatures by using an artificial foot and making it sweat! This new test simulates heat and perspiration generated by the foot inside a shoe. The results will benefit manufacturers and consumers seeking the ultimate comfortable shoe. It comprises a moulded foot which incorporates electrical heating elements and pumps which force a controlled amount of water through hundreds of tiny holes on its surface.

Satra has added a new dimension to its water resistance testing programme. After developing tests for everyday and sports footwear, the UK technology centre is responding to a growing demand to test taller boots. Satra can do this with new test equipment that incorporates a deep water channel to allow for testing on seams and lace eyelets much higher up the leg.

From next January, the Portuguese Shoe Show (MOCAP) will have a new structure. The exhibition will be held at Europarque, in Santa Maria da Feira, for a two day period and will stay open until 8pm. On the 15th (Thursday) and 16th of January (Friday) 2004, MOCAP will present the best of what the Portuguese footwear industry has to offer.

Huntsman Polyurethanes launched new groundbreaking footwear technology at Lineapelle at the end of October. SmartLite is described as the first footwear technology to combine lightweight properties, strong aesthetic possibilities and a high-quality performance. The new technology requires a limited number of processing steps and the results are strong and reliable. Already a million pairs of shoes have been tested and to date no returns have been reported.

Slovakia's Statistical Office reports that the Slovak Republic exported raw hides and skins, and leather and leather products, worth US$96 million in the first nine months of this year, a year-on-year increase of 8.4%. Slovakian imports of the same types of commodities were 7.1% higher year-on-year at US$176 million.

Serbia and Montenegro's Federal Statistical Office reports that the production of leather and leather products in Serbia and Montenegro in the first half of this year was 21% lower than in the same period in 2002. In comparison, overall industrial output in the country in the January to June period was 2% lower year-on-year.

A significant increase in buyer attendance was recorded at the Asia Pacific Leather Fair (APLF) 2003 October Show which concluded on October 8, 2003. There were 10,613 visitors (figures examined by PricewaterhouseCoopers) from 80 countries and regions, with 30% more overseas visitors than last year.

Israel's Central Bureau of Statistics reports that Israel exported raw livestock hides and skins worth US$5.4 million in the first nine months of this year, compared with US$4.9 million in the same period in 2002. Israeli hides and skins imports were worth US$1.2 million, against US$1.5 million in the same period last year.

Slovenia's Statistical Office reports that Slovenia exported raw hides and skins worth US$13.6 million in the first eight months of this year, a year-on-year fall of 15.5%. Slovenian hides and skins imports were 23% lower year-on-year at US$12.1 million.

Pittards have launched a new website which is aimed at promoting the leather industry and providing information for all associated sectors including leading brand manufacturers, investors, fashion designers, leathergoods manufacturers and even students. The site aims to provide not only clear information on all aspects of Pittards but also a far deeper understanding of leather, its potential and how it is used.

Ireland's Central Statistics Office reports that the production of leather and leather products in Ireland in August was 63.1% lower compared with August last year. In comparison, the annual increase in industrial output in Ireland in August was 15.5%.

The positive aspects of the German shoe industry during the first half of 2003 were described by Dieter Ruehrschneck, chairman of the Hauptverband der deutschen Schuhindustrie eV (general association of the German shoe industry, registered association) as being overshadowed by an increasing number of negative

Croatia's Statistics Bureau reports that stocks of leather and leather products at manufacturers in Croatia in September were 7.9% higher than in the same month in 2002. Overall stocks of industrial products in Croatia in September were 0.2% higher year-on-year.

TFL have redesigned their website, to open up new dimensions of information and enhanced services. The site has been enlarged with the addition of several new services like business news and fashion trends. Users can also find all the appreciated information about the trendbook: 'TFL Forecast of Fashion Colours for Leather.'

DuPont Textiles & Interiors (DTI) have announced that they will be called Invista with immediate effect.

Abstract

The product sets a new standard in providing a unique bundle of outstanding properties that lead to added value for tanners and benefits for the environment. Eusapon OD is a universal and high-performance degreasing agent for leather and woolskins. It can be applied at all stages of production for soaking, liming, deliming and degreasing.

Introduction

Introduction

BASF took up the challenge to find an environmentally-friendly degreasing agent which did not rely on solvents or nonylphenolethoxylates. Using the synergies provided by the different sectors within BASF Performance Chemicals and also working with the University of Cologne, an innovative and universal surfactant, Eusapon OD, was developed. The following paper is by Dr Gunther R Pabst and Philippe Lamalle.

The favourable condition of the leather market, brought about largely by an increase of footwear manufacture (+12%) was reflected in tannery sales last year. Chrome tanned leather shipments were up 15.5% and juft leather up by 38% compared with 2001. Sole leather sales, on the other hand, decreased by 32 %.

In the run up to the Bologna fair, discussions with industry players all over Europe failed to bring any positive news to light. Orders remain extremely scarce for both hides and sheep or goat.

The United States Department of Agriculture's Foreign Agricultural Service reports that the United States imported hides and skins worth US$2.42 million from Russia in the first eight months of this year, compared with US$2.28 million in the same period in 2002.

In Zimbabwe the formal sector hide merchants and tanners manage to survive, despite raw material shortages, sky rocketing costs and worsening hide quality. Hides go for Z$900-1,200 per kg against a more moderate Z$30 per hide approximate at Uhuru!

Ukraine's State Statistics Committee reports that Ukraine exported 'leather raw materials' worth US$97 million in the first eight months of this year, a year-on-year increase of 17%, according to the Interfax news agency. Ukrainian imports of the same types of commodities were 10% higher year-on-year at US$26 million.

Lineapelle and a fall in US cattle slaughter have done little to excite the market as prices on most selections fell during October.

The Philippines has re-opened its borders to Canadian beef following the reported case of BSE in a Canadian cow in May. This makes it the first Asian and the third country in the world (next to the US and Mexico) to relax its border controls on Canadian beef. However, the lifting of the ban is subject to various conditions.

Japanese scientists have launched an investigation into a possible new strain of BSE after a bullock was diagnosed as having the disease. Confirmation of a new strain would be a setback for Japan's cattle and beef industries which have struggled to regain public confidence after the first case of BSE was discovered in Japan two years ago.

According to the Central News Agency, the Taipei Economic and Cultural Office in Houston has reported that the Taiwan Regional Association of Tanneries is set to sign a US$500 million contract with the Texas leather industry for the purchase of millions of animal hides. A Taiwan leather delegation, led by association chairman Hsu Kuo-hsuan, was scheduled to visit Texas at the end of September, mainly for sourcing Texan raw materials and strengthening trade ties with hide merchants in the southwestern US state. Hsu is scheduled to join Jeff Moseley, CEO of Texas Economic Development, an agency that markets Texas for business and tourism development, to co-endorse a letter of intent, paving the way for a contract for 4.5-5 million cow and pig hides expected to be delivered by Texan leather merchants between 2004 and 2005.

Hidenet.com, publishers of daily and weekly reports on the US hide market and since spring their Leather Market Report, now also publish a weekly report on the Latin American Market. This report covers hide and skin trading as well as wet-blue, crust and finished leathers in Argentina, Brazil, Chile, Uruguay and Paraguay.

The European Union Council of Agriculture Ministers has voted for new legislation to control outbreaks of Foot and Mouth Disease (FMD), according to Just-food.com.

Statistics Norway reports that Norway exported raw hides and skins worth US$47 million in the first nine months of this year, a year-on-year fall of 29.4%.

The 'sizzle' of which I fondly spoke about in the last issue has just about fizzled from the Mexican hide trade. For what is certainly supposed to be the absolute best season of the year for the leather industry in Mexico, has truly left much to be desired during the past month.

The big news from Ireland was that one of the oldest hide companies decided to stop purchasing fresh hides from slaughterhouses and would concentrate on their croupon cutting business instead. The last raw hide collection was due on November 7.

On October 11, the Ethiopian Tanners Association organised a workshop at Addis Ababa Abattoirs Enterprises, sponsored by Unido. The subject of the workshop was the introduction of the Static Flaying Frame in Ethiopia. Some 50 people attended the workshop, some coming from 700km away, and all expressed a keen interest to promote distribution of the SFF all over the country.

The big news in the US market in October was a sudden fear that the country would run out of enough cattle suitable for slaughter. After concluding a weekly kill of 640,000 head on a Saturday, packers came to work the following week and perceived that there were not enough market-ready cattle available to find a full week's worth of animals to run their plants.

The Mexican division of Quinn, Quinn Mexico have introduced a water-based polyurethane known as Resatop M461/M201.

Ongoing research and the constant creation of new ways and methods for efficient leather upgrading, has led to Clariant's: Product Line Finishing launch of an innovative range of stuccos. Adapted to modern application methods and for a wide range of articles, they represent a major step forward for a rational solution of a finisher's daily problems.

Continuing the transitional period during which Salem products are being transferred into the Stahl International range, a raft of over a dozen products used in wet-end and finishing has now been transferred. Many of these are typical of the products used for creating traditional shoe upper leathers and American-type lifestyle pull-up leathers for manufacture in the drum.

Smit & Zoon, the Netherlands wet-end leather chemical manufacturer, have launched Synthol PD 990.

Version 2.0 of LeatherLink is a set of integrated management tools for the global leather industry. It has been developed and supplied by BSG LeatherLink and was officially launched in early September. At the launch, held at BSG LeatherLink's head office at Chennai, India, Maria Selvaraj, ceo of Apma Leathers of Chennai released a CD demonstrating the features of the system.

At Tanning Tech, Boehme were demonstrating once again their competency in the automotive sector with a variety of new products and processes.

Leather International provides a worldwide selection of raw materials prices for the leather industry. Although we update these on a regular basis, they are only intended as a guide since market fluctuations occur constantly.

Tony Novello has joined the American oils and fatliquors specialists, Atlas Refinery as a technical sales representative. He joined in June and will be based in Madison, Indiana, covering Europe and the New England region of the US.

Carmine Intiso, independent consultant and creator of chemicals processes aimed at eliminating tanners' problems, told Leather International in Bologna that he wanted to open the eyes of the tanners in the western world before they are swallowed up by China. Trained as a tanner, he has made it his business to formulate his own processes and mix his own chemicals in his constant search for solutions.

To make the BLC quicker and sharper in decision-making, the 23-man council has been dissolved and replaced by a six-strong supervisory board comprised of leading lights from the leather industry.

S M Naseem, Mohammad Ismail Mohammad Aslam Limited, Karachi, has been re-elected as central chairman of the Pakistan Tanners Association, unopposed, while Ashan Elahi, Alma Leather, Karachi, and Mohammad Musaddiq, Siddiq Leather Works (Pvt) Limited, Lahore, were elected as vice chairmen of the central executive committee for the year 2003-2004.

Mauro Stocchero has joined Italian leather chemical manufacturer, Chimes, as export manager. He joined during the summer and his responsibilities will be to maintain and build-up Chimes international leather chemicals business. He will be based in Montebello close to the Arzignano tanning region.

If you have recently completed or will shortly be completing research studies relevant to hide preservation, hide and leather defects, leather manufacturing technology, new product development, tannery equipment development, leather properties and specifications, tannery environmental management, or other related subjects, you are encouraged to present the results of this research at the next annual convention of the ALCA to be held at Chase Park Plaza, St Louis, MO, June 16-20, 2004.

There is a lot of commotion going on Down Under concerning the cull of kangaroos. As a friend of mine in New Zealand says: 'those plastic sandal wearing trendy white liberal females' are on the war path again, judging a situation on its face value rather than looking a little bit deeper to where the problems arise and then helping to look for a dignified solution.

Italian tannery drum makers, Vallero International, have acquired the Billeri trademark both in Italy and worldwide. Vallero now own the Billeri made equipment, drawings, files and models. Vallero International are now in a position to supply spare parts and make complete drums according to Billeri know-how. Billeri stopped their activities in January 2002.

In July, the owner of Ostashkov Tannery, Interkozha company, Leonid Parfenov, signed an agreement with the Victor Smorgon Group, a leading Australian industrial group, whereby Ostashkov Tannery becomes a partnership between the Russian entrepreneur and the Australian group. The tannery was established in 1730 and is one of the largest, fully-integrated tanneries in Europe. Ostashkov were bought by Parfenov three years ago and process around 30% of all chrome leather in Russia. They are 354km from Moscow, on the banks of Seliger Lake, employ 1,000 people and were awarded Best Russian Exporter of 2002.

Automotive and furniture upholstery leather tanners, Wollsdorf Leder, were able to increase their turnover by 10% in the 2002/03 fiscal year compared with the previous fiscal period. The increase was attributed to a rise in market share in the furniture sector in Germany and the overall company development in the automotive sector. With an increase in orders of 25% on the previous year, Wollsdorf Leder achieved the highest level of business since the company was founded. According to the company, turnover has risen by a further 15% since July and a number of new high-profile companies have been added to their customer base including Ferrari, Maserati and Aston Martin.

Organisers of Le Cuir A Paris are currently engaged in the second phase of the fair's development by inviting new sectors to join the exhibition. Material, component, accessory and leather garment manufacturers who are aiming at the mass market and, amongst others, at teenage fashion, will be invited to exhibit at the next edition of the fair in April 2004.

Michell Ireland Limited, the last major tannery in Ireland, based in Portlaw, County Waterford, is to close. The plant, which opened in 1993, currently employs 60 people and processes up to 25% of the cattle hides in the republic for export.

The combined footwear and leathergoods exhibitions Modacalzado and Iberpiel formed part of the International Leather Week in Madrid during the final week of September. Both fairs were held in the Juan Carlos Exhibition Centre, September 26-28.

The Domino tannery in Southern Moravia say they have acquired a new strategic partner from Ireland, according to the CTK Business News. This means they can carry on production instead of closing down this autumn.

Industrias Peleteras (Inpelsa), part of the Spanish Lederval Group, have been accredited with the ISO14001:1996 certification by the auditors SGS. The award was officially announced on October 14. Inpelsa manufacture finished doubleface, nappa and suede sheepskins and are one of the largest garment leather makers in Spain. Accreditation has been obtained by the tanner, located in Canals near Valencia, as they have implemented a satisfactory environmental management structure.

Before Tanning Tech took place this year, a number in the Italian industry were anticipating a disastrous show. Thankfully, the show proved better and more fruitful than many had predicted.

The fashionistas at the Italian fashion house Gucci have turned their attention to tannery drums. Caravel Pelli Pregiate is a tannery in Castelfranco near Santa Croce S'ull Arno, which has been acquired by Gucci to manufacture exotic leathers such as crocodile for their bespoke fashion collections. The tannery commissioned Italprogetti to manufacture a pastel green polypropylene drum with red and yellow paintwork. The 3x2m drum was on display on the company's stand at Tanning Tech. It will be used for all the wet-end processes and features a filtering system. We look forward to seeing the designer fleshing machines!

Odewald & Compagnie, a Berlin-based portfolio investment group, have acquired TFL Holding GmbH (TFL Ledertechnik) from Permira. The announcement was made at TFL's talk show held in Bologna, Italy, October 28. Permira, a leading European private equity firm, only acquired the business in March 2001 and were advised by Credit Suisse First Boston. It is believed they sold TFL to raise cash for other projects.

Elmo Leather will begin cutting leather for the automotive industry this autumn at a new production plant in Germany, in the old Swedish town of Wismar*. Elmo's investment for the first phase will be around $519,500 and the plant at Wismar will employ between 50-60 people. Further machine installation is expected up to mid-2004 and Elmo estimate that they will invest around $1 million) on the German plant.

Elementis, the world's largest chromium producers, say the new environmental regulations under consideration by Brussels will force them to cut European manufacturing by up to 40% and move production to Asia were the red tape is less onerous.

BLC Leather Technology Centre held their annual two-day seminar in the picturesque setting of Highgate House located close to Northampton, UK, October 2-3. The format of the seminar changed slightly this year as the first half of the first day was aimed more at the retail sector rather than the tanning industry. The remainder of the seminar was more focused on the leather makers present. The BLC took the opportunity to announce the setting-up of a supervisory board of non-executive directors to oversee the activities of the organisation. This replaces the formerly elected BLC council. The new board will headed by Jonathan Muirhead as chairman and he will hold the office for a two-year term. Muirhead is also chairman of Scottish Tanning Industries.

Following reorganisation, the Bayer Group announced on November 7 that it intends to maintain its focus on its core businesses and in the future concentrate on health care, nutrition and innovative materials. For this reason, Bayer Chemicals (excluding H C Starck and Wolff Walsrode) is to be combined with certain parts of the polymers business in a new company with the provisional name 'NewCo'. Effectively the company is spinning-off its chemicals and polymers businesses which includes leather chemicals.

Summary

Chinese tannery drum manufacturers, Yuto, have relocated their production facility. The company have moved from their previous site in the Jiangxi province near Guangzhou to a new factory located close to Shanghai.

Production of Nike branded athletic shoes, which have been manufactured by 78 Thai subcontractors, in the year ended May 2003 achieved order values of $370 million, compared with $350 million in the previous 12-month period.

David Massobrio, specialist in cationic finishes for ALPA, Italy, recently inaugurated a technical seminar in Karachi on 'Innovative techniques in garment leather finishing'.

THE first mini leather industrial park with a potential to provide employment to 6,000 people, who can make shoes, chappals and other leathergoods, has been inaugurated in Duddeda village in Medak district (Andhra Pradesh) by the State Minister for Employment Generation, B Gopalakrishna Reddy. It is part of the 'Malupu' programme formulated by the Leather Industries Development Corporation of Andhra Pradesh (LIDCAP), under which the government plans to set up 72 mini leather parks over the next five years.

Renewed export business, new products and a diversification programme have helped Kanpur-based Mirza Tanners to overcome their worst setback in the past ten years. Because a lack of orders from South Africa and slow economic revival in the UK and the US, the company's turnover declined by 12.7% in 2002-03 compared with 2001-02. The UK and the US are major markets for the company.

BASF have increased their capacity for tanning and dispersing agents in Shanghai with the consequent creation of new jobs. The move is in response to an increasing demand for powder products.

One of the spin-offs of the growth of wet-white tanning has been the renewed demand for vegetable extracts. Because current technology leaves wet-white hides with an 'empty' feel, they then need to be veg retanned to plump them out.

Ethiopia is an important leather producer with a large indigenous livestock population. It is one of the largest leather producing countries in Africa and will host the fourth edition of Meet In Africa.

At Tanning Tech, Assomac announced that their service company Assomac Servizi srl have prepared a master plan for the construction of a dedicated tanning district of Robaiki, near Cairo, which should double the production capacity of the industry.

The restructuring of Kolosus following its takeover by Claas Daun's group has seen almost the entire head office disappear. Former group managing director Anton Bischof has already left and company secretary John Nell and treasurer Roy Levy depart at the end of November.

A new trade fair, the Cairo International Leather Show will be launched in Cairo from December 9-12, 2004.

Nakara Leather Tanning & Processing, Windhoek, Namibia, have 'expanded considerably' over the past two years to meet what they say is a growing demand for upholstery leather, mainly from South African customers, according to partner Kevin Davidow.

Butterworth Tannery, the joint venture wet-blue operation between Springbok Trading and Sparta Beef, has been closed. 'It was an untenable situation', Springbok managing director Paul Ward said. 'There were constant problems with electricity, water and theft, and eventually Sparta demanded that either we move production or they would look elsewhere. As far back as April this year we even contemplated moving the entire operation to Welkom, near Sparta's feedlot.'

BASF have warned that profits will be lower than last year after reporting a fall in operating margins during the third quarter. Chairman of the board, Jürgen Hambrecht dismissed the optimistic view that the economy is poised for a rapid recovery.

Mongolia's National Statistics Office reports that the production of leather footwear in Mongolia in the first ten months of 2003 was 60.3% lower than in the same period in 2002. In comparison, overall industrial output in Mongolia in the January to October period was 0.6% higher year-on-year.

Latvia's Central Statistical Bureau reports that Latvia exported raw hides and leather worth US$17.2 million in the first nine months of this year, compared with US$9.61 million in the same period in 2002. Latvian imports of the same types of commodities in the January to September period were worth US$19.58 million, against US$10.35 million in the same nine-month period in 2002.

Hungary's Central Statistical Office reports that the production of leather and leather products in Hungary in the first nine months of this year was 21.7% lower than in the same period in 2002. Total sales of these commodities by producers in the same period were 21.1% lower year-on-year, including a fall in sales of 20.9% on the domestic market and 21.2% lower sales on export markets.