British leather manufacturers Pittards are celebrating after British eventer Jeanette Brakewell has definitely been confirmed as a member of the British Olympic team.

Ayakkabi Winter - Shoes, Bags and Accessories Fair will be held for the 16th time this year from July 22-25, 2004 in Izmir, Türkiye. Nearly 250 leading brands, wholesalers, retailers and exporters will be exhibiting their products on an exhibition area of 23,750 sq m. The product groups in 2004 Winter Edition are as follows: shoes for men, women, children; boots; bags; suitcases; wallets; belts; sport shoes; trade publications; sectoral chambers, associations and institutions.

The CTC Group have recorded an increase in turnover for the fifth year running. Growth of 8% in 2003 has resulted in the group's turnover doubling over the past five years. Thanks to CTC's increased activity in the international market, the sales figures have become, for the first time, greater than the group's collective finances. In fact, the sales figures have allowed the group to re-balance a deficit in their finances and have allowed the group to spend more on research, the true reason for the CTC's existence.

Nalle Johansson, president, and Anders Bengtsson, executive vice president, have today acquired 100% of the shares in Elmo Leather AB. The sellers are Accent Equity Partners and Nordic Capital Fund II. The Elmo Leather Group are the world's largest manufacturer of exclusive furniture leather and one of the six biggest suppliers of leather to the automotive industry. The company develop, manufacture, market and sell Elmo leather in more than 40 markets worldwide.

Vera Pelle Italiana Conciata Al Vegetale, the Genuine Italian Vegetable-Tanned Leather Consortium, have unveiled their spring/summer 2005 leathers at Natural Sensations, a series of various events around the world, including New York, Tokyo, Florence and Paris. The consortium's 31 tanners all showcased their interpretations of the three main trends designed by Angelo Uslenghi, trend expert and member of the fashion trade organisation Moda In.

The 7th edition of Le Cuir A Paris will open its doors September 13 - 15 under the green and yellow colours of Brazil. The show will take place in hall 6 Paris Expo - Porte de Versailles.

The fallout from positive BSE tests in both the US and Canada during 2003 has resulted in significant changes to Australia's traditional trade flows for beef, with some product normally destined for North America now being shipped to Japan and Korea.

Satra has celebrated its 85th anniversary year by reporting a record annual income of £7.25 million. Chief executive Dr Ron Whittaker announced details at Satra's annual meeting on June 15 when he also revealed that the centre has maintained an enviable financial record. Over the last 35 years of continually increasing income year on year the organisation has never run at a deficit on its revenue account. Dr Whittaker said: 'This achievement for 2003 is even more impressive considering the global change in production and sourcing of footwear and other consumer products and our major investment in new facilities.'

Opus 9 Leather Printing Ltd have launched a new product range of bespoke leather menus which they say has taken London by storm. The London based company are famed for their remarkable and unique printing process and claim to be the only supplier in the world of printed leather.

Satra can now help companies ensure the luggage they supply to customers will withstand the rigours of modern travel. This will avoid problems such as leather suitcases bursting open, valuable contents being damaged or even lost — and result in compensation claims.

Karl Toosbuy, founder of the Ecco footwear empire, has died. He will always be remembered as an extraordinary entrepreneur. With his wife he founded Ecco 41 years ago in Denmark and, since then, he has spent every minute of his life building the business he loved, expanding into other countries and even building his own tanneries.

Serbian Prime Minister Vojislav Kostunica has said he would like to see increased co-operation between Serbian and Russian companies in the leather industry, according to the Serbian government's web site. Kostunica, who was scheduled to hold talks with Russian President Vladimir Putin in Moscow in early June, added that economic co-operation with Russia is one of Serbia's main priorities. He added that he welcomed Russian involvement in the privatisation of Serbian companies.

Israel's Central Statistics Bureau reports that Israel imported leather and leather products worth US$5.4 million in the first four months of this year, compared with US$3.8 million in the same period last year. Israeli exports of the same types of commodities in the January to April period were worth US$400,000, against US$500,000 in the corresponding period in 2003.

Assomac has, in collaboration with Spanish and Ethiopian organisations, planned a business meeting to be held at the Hotel Sheraton in Addis Ababa from October 4-8. The aim of the meeting, which is technically and financially supported by PRO€INVEST (www.proinvest-eu.org), is to bring European and Ethiopian businessmen in the leather sector together with a view to favouring initiatives of mutual interest for the Ethiopian export industry.

Turkmenistan's National Statistics Institute reports that the average number of cattle on livestock farms in Turkmenist 3% higher than in the same period in 2003, according to the Turkmen Dowlet Habarlar Gullugy news agency.

On May 27, 2004, a conference on Sustainability and the Leather sector took place at the premises of the European Commission. It was organized by DG ENTR, the European Leather Association (COTANCE) and the Trade Union (ETUF-TCL) and was attended by numerous members of the European Institutions, leather sector and annexed industries representatives (leathergoods, textiles, chemicals …).

The Technological Institute for Footwear and Related Industries (INESCOP), in cooperation with the Federation of Spanish Footwear Industries (FICE), is developing diverse activities with the objective of making the European Eco-label for Footwear widely known in all the footwear manufacturing companies. One of these activities is INESCOP´s new website focusing on the European Eco-label for Footwear.

Stahl have recently signed an agreement to sell their shares in Productos Stahl de Venezuela CA back to their former partners. Licensing and distributor agreements have been set up to allow the new company to manufacture and sell Stahl products in Venezuela and to use certain registered trade marks for a minimum period of three years under its new name.

One of our readers sent us the following which is translated from a piece in an Italian women's magazine by Ms Concita De Gregorio. It asks: 'Did you ever hear about customs form Cn23? No? You're lucky!

Statistics New Zealand reports that New Zealand exported raw hides and skins, and leather, worth US$333 million in the twelve months to the end of March this year. This figure was 21.3% lower year-on-year.

After cancelling their FurIst event scheduled for May 20-22, 2004, Ezgi Ajans are awaiting a decision by the leather sector governing body on new fair dates and venues.

The Odos Gaminai ir Ko (OGK) tannery in Siauliai in Lithuania has decided to switch from the production of semi-finished products to finished leather, according to Baltic Business News. OGK are investing US$1.38 million in technology for the production of finished products, which will create more added value than the types of products manufactured currently. This will increase OGK's profit margins by 3-5% to 10%.

The completion of a Vocational Footwear Training Institute in Istanbul continues. The high school opened in September 2002 and marks a milestone in preparing professionals for a career in footwear technology. The school operates under a bilateral cooperation program with Athens-based Elkede Technology and Design Centre SA and various Turkish sectoral associations and business and educational institutions.

Iran's Customs Administration reports that Iran exported pickled hides and skins worth US$3.8 million in the Iranian month of Farvardin (March 20 - April 19, 2004), according to the IRNA news agency.

Statistics South Africa reports that South Africa produced 43,506 tonnes of tanning extracts in 2003, compared with 53,826 tonnes in 2002 and 43,973 tonnes in 2001.

The year-on-year growth in Czech footwear production in March could be the first sign that Czech footwear manufacturers are increasing their competitiveness against imported products on the domestic market, according to the CTK news agency's Business News. Analysts in Prague say that the focus of Czech footwear manufacturers on high quality products was the reason for their higher production in March.

Press reports in Budapest say that Concash International in the United States are planning to relocate their Western European leather processing operations to Hungary, according to the Interfax news agency. This will be on the grounds of reducing costs. Concash's Hungarian subsidiary, Seton-Lindgens, will reportedly establish a 400 square metre plant and logistics centre in an industrial park in Papa in western Hungary. The new plant is expected to be completed by September this year and will employ 18 people.

Asked several years ago about leather exports, the general coordinator of Bursa's tannery tone, Muhsin Ozyenice, said they had no significant exports to report. But leather is now being incorporated in Bursa's active exporting trend. The 2004 first quarter (January to March) exports of garments and finished leather totalled $186,500.

It is not just status, ego and backing fashion trends that are sparking the $13 billion global luxury leathergoods and accessories market. The likes of Louis Vuitton and Coach Inc are making it red hot. Lew Frankfort, who wheeled Coach into the high end handbag market, was ranked seventh in Business Week's recent list of America's twenty highest paid chief executive officers.

The United States Department of Agriculture's Foreign Agricultural Service (USDA FAS) reports that the United States exported hides and skins worth US$946,000 to Slovenia in the first quarter of this year, compared with US$696,000 in the same period in 2003. American hides and skins exports to Slovenia in the whole of last year were worth US$D3.41 million.

Ukraine's State Statistics Committee reports that Ukraine exported raw materials worth US$38 million in the first quarter of this year, a year-on-year increase of 5%, according to the Interfax news agency. Imports of the same types of commodities were 19% higher at US$11 million.

Turkey's State Statistics Institute reports that Turkey exported raw hides and skins, and leather, worth US$22 million in the first quarter of this year, compared with US$17 million in the same period in 2003. Imports of the same types of commodities were worth US$144 million, as against US$130 million in the corresponding period last year.

Slovakia's State Statistical Office reports that the Slovak Republic imported raw hides and skins, and leather, worth US$81 million in the first four months of this year, a year-on-year fall of 10.6%. Slovakian exports of the same types of commodities in the same period were 15.6% lower year-on-year at US$41.4 million.

Statistics Norway reports that Norway exported raw livestock hides and skins worth US$33.9 million in the first four months of this year, a year-on-year fall of 6.3%.

Kazakhstan's National Statistics Agency reports that leather industry production in Kazakhstan in the first quarter of this year was worth US$3.84 million, compared with US$3.28 million in the same period in 2003.

Statistics Denmark reports that Denmark exported raw livestock hides and skins worth US$121 million in the first quarter of this year, compared with US$114 million in the same period in 2003. Danish imports of the same types of commodities in this year's first quarter were worth US$84 million, as against US$66 million in the corresponding period last year.

Croatia's Central Statistics Bureau reports that product stocks held by Croatian leather industry companies in April were 11.6% higher than in March and 14.2% lower than in April last year. In comparison, overall product stocks at Croatian manufacturing companies in April were 3.4% higher month-on-month and 5.2% higher year-on-year.

Croatia's Central Bureau of Statistics reports that a total of 30,822 head of cattle of a total net weight of 6,542 tonnes were slaughtered in abattoirs in Croatia in the first quarter of this year. These figures were 21% and 32% per cent higher, respectively, than in the same period last year.

Brazil's National Statistics Institute reports that the production of livestock hides and leather in Brazil in the twelve months to the end of January this year was 1.6% higher than in the previous 12-month period (to the end of January 2003). In comparison, overall industrial output in Brazil increased by 0.2% year-on-year.

Statistics Lithuania reports that Lithuanian exports of raw hides and skins, and leather, in the first quarter of this year were worth US$9.41 million, compared with US$18.5 million in the same period in 2003. One of the reasons for the fall in exports was the temporary suspension of production by the Siauliai Stumbras leather producer.

Stahl has recently signed an agreement to sell its shares in Productos Stahl de Venezuela back to its former partners.

Dr Axel Westerhaus, currently serving in the United States as head of polyethers in the Bayer Material Science subgroup, will assume responsibility for the fine chemicals business unit of Bayer Chemicals - to be called Lanxess from June 1, 2004. The fine chemicals business unit includes leather chemicals. He will succeed Dr Rudolf Hanko, who will leave the company on May 31, 2004 at his own request.

Invista, the largest integrated fibres and intermediates business in the world, have announced DuPont Teflon leather protector for washable leathers. The new leather treatment protects washable leathers by preventing stains from penetrating hides upon contact.

Italian leather finishing chemical makers, Kemiter, inaugurated their new production plant in the Macrolotto Industrial Area, Castelfranco di Sotto, Italy. The new factory is located in the heart of the Santa Croce s'ull Arno tanning cluster. The opening ceremony took place at the new site on May 21.

BATA India Ltd have appointed a new chairman, P M Sinha, the former ceo of Pepsi International South Asia. He replaces Constantin Salameh, who was in charge on a temporary basis after A L Mudaliar stepped down recently. Salameh will continue on the board.

Offering footwear manufacturers high durability and improved processing, the Huntsman Polyurethanes' Footwear team is launching the AVALON ABX range of thermoplastic polyurethane (TPU). This new series of high performance TPU/rubber compounds is available in a variety of hardnesses, from 60 Shore A to 90 Shore A, responding to the demand for soft applications in casual and athletic shoes as well as harder sole types for cleated sports plates.

It is a common sight at any exhibition to see people from non exhibiting companies roaming the halls with their briefcases and price lists. This time, however, Lineapelle decided that this was simply not on.

Liberty shoes plan to expand their domestic manufacturing capacity by starting a shoe factory in either Karnataka or Andhra Pradesh and buying a tannery in Tamil Nadu, according to executive director, Adarsh Gupta. He said the factory would be set up 'once value added tax gets implemented', while acquisition of a tannery Tamil Nadu was a long-term plan.

Following APLF in Hong Kong, S M Naseem, chairman of the Pakistan Tanners Association, told Leather International that a large number of orders were booked during the show which amounted to around US$10 million. He also said that a good number of orders/enquiries were under negotiation and that he was optimistic they would materialize and make good business. It is expected that Pakistani exporters will benefit as a result of Pakistan taking part as focus country this year.

APLF Ltd, organisers of a number of leather and leather product exhibitions such as the APLF and ACLE, has launched a new event: Fashion First - Europe. The new show will be held at Brussels Expo Centre, Belgium from January 31 to February 2, 2005.

Invista have included three additional tanneries in their Leather with Lycra programme in 2004 including Prime Asia Leather Corporation, Jyi-Fwu Leather Manufacturing Factory Co Ltd and Chifa Leather Corp. The tanneries were specifically selected in an effort to raise innovation in the global footwear, apparel and upholstery industries.

Abstract

At the seventh session in June 2001, the sub-group on hides of skins requested the FAO secretariat to undertake empirical analysis of the impact of environmental regulations and trade restrictions on the hides and skins and leather sector. This document has been prepared in response to that request and was presented to the eighth session by George Rapsomanikis.

One example is that of Egypt where Italian know-how and technology will construct a tanning zone outside Cairo for the relocation of the industry away from the city. Using examples from home, Assomac Servizi srl will construct tanneries to suit various sizes of operation and different types of production rather like a new housing development where you select the size and style of house to be built which will best suit your needs.

The Irish hide business has experienced cataclysmic changes in the past eighteen months and the upheavals have not yet finished. Irish meat companies, north and south, have been consolidating their operations and a number of the plants have grown considerably over the past few years and have now taken over control of their own hides.

The row over taxes and illegal trade in hides and skins has resurfaced. Acting Kenya Hides and Skins Association (KHSA) chairman Robert Njoka says: 'My predecessor Amos Ngonjo stated the industry loses an estimated Ksh10 billion in revenue annually to crooks in the industry. 'This is impossible. Even if all the animals in Kenya were slaughtered, the cumulative revenue would never reach that figure. I appreciate that some traders have under-declared values and weights in the past, but the figures being bandied around are laughable. It is just not possible for the industry to generate that kind of tax in the first place.' While tax evasion was rampant in the past, measures have been put in place to prevent it.

A resolution has been passed to increase export taxes on hides and skins to 30% and ban exports within three years. Following a regional workshop organised by ESALIA in Nairobi, Kenya, the Uganda Investment Authority received a report saying that one of the resolutions passed said governments should impose restrictions on the export of hides and skins to countries outside Africa. The source said the Ugandan tanneries incurred higher production costs because they cannot compete with traders who export raw hides.

Despite the slightly more optimistic noises emanating from the leather industry at the moment, US hide prices still remain relatively static across most selections. Stable and even falling prices come at a time when the US slaughter figures are almost 10% down compared with last year. Normal market forces would predict the reverse.

It seems that all who were present at the Hong Kong fair were happy to meet again after last year's cancellation. The fact that the organisers were ready to refund exhibitors last year has been much appreciated and ensured they came back in force.

Chinese tanners, Henan Prosper, who claim to consume around 60% of Australian shorn lambskins, believe that the drought which blighted the domestic woolskin market is now beginning to have a negative effect on their business.

The American contingent of hide traders, packers, processors and tanners converged on Hong Kong for the APLF as March turned into April. Those who had expected to book at least good quantities of hides were disappointed. As always, some business was concluded but at prices below the previous week and, in most cases, less hides were sold than in a normal week.

Under new management since 2003, Ostashkov have developed into a tannery incorporating all the latest technology, a professional management system and a positive and international outlook. Russian entrepreneur Leonid Parfenov acquired a share of the tannery in 2001 and brought with him a team of young managers from Moscow who significantly improved the tannery's operations.

Leather International provides a worldwide selection of raw materials prices for the leather industry. Although we update these on a regular basis, they are only intended as a guide since market fluctuations occur constantly.

American leather chemical specialists, Atlas Refinery, are expanding their factory site in Newark, New Jersey.

Human rights, decent behaviour, social involvement, and acknowledgement of the ethical treatment of animals are very laudable goals. The developed nations have more or less achieved these goals, but unfortunately the developing world, where hunger, illnesses and hardship rule, hasn't even begun to consider improvements.

Clariant's Business Unit Leather aims to help tanners add value to their products by supplying fashion themes and ideas well in advance of their competitors. They have formed a small fashion group, based in Italy, made up of external fashion consultants, leather technicians and marketing personnel to develop practical fashion trends for customers using Clariant's leather chemicals.

Exhibitors and buyers alike are awake to the uncertainties created by terrorism. The events of September 11, 2001, occurred one week before the shows then and, again, the Madrid train bombings preceded the Mipel, Micam and Mifur exhibitions, showing accessories, shoes and fur clothing respectively.

Do you remember dubbin? It was a sticky oily paste that schoolboys were encouraged to apply to their football boots 40-50 years ago to keep them clean and supple, if you could call the leather that football boots were made from in those days 'supple'. Nowadays, the name 'dubbin' is rarely mentioned; indeed most people have probably never heard of it. In fact, it is defined as being 'an application of tallow and oil for dressing leather'.

Ian Boston of Waltham Tannery Co Ltd, Lincolnshire, UK, celebrates his 65th birthday in style cutting the cake in front of his staff. He took over the running of the Louth site from Peter Moss in the 1980s, whilst the Grimsby site was later relocated up to Louth in the late 1990s, reflecting the tough trading conditions at the time. The company take pride in being one of the very last of their kind to battle on in what can only be described as 'an ever challenging world in the manufacture of leather'.

This year, the Society of Leather Technologists and Chemists annual conference and dinner dance will be held at the University Arms Hotel in Cambridge on Saturday September 11, 2004. An interesting and informative day of presentations from a range of sectors from the industry is promised, followed by a dinner dance where there is an ideal opportunity to meet old acquaintances and entertain guests.

Spanish drum and paddle producers, Olcina, are the first tannery machinery company to achieve ISO 9000:2000 certification. The quality seal states that Olcina guarantee that their activity is orientated to the client and is based on principles of continuous product improvement, including constant communication with customers.

Levi's, pioneers of fashion branding and a veteran in Türkiye, are restrained when it comes to offering their footwear range on this market.

Spain, France and Italy have joined to form a new association - ELGA - which plans to lobby Brussels on issues affecting leathergoods production in the EU.

SAS Machine Co Ltd (formerly SAS Leather Machine Co) have been bought by their management, Bob Moore and Elke Ruebsam. The main business remains the supply and service of bandknife splitting machines and skiving machines. However, a large portfolio of other machines for the leather and leather-related trades is maintained.

The fourteenth edition of the International Leather Week closed its doors on Sunday March 28, claiming 20,003 professional visitors to one of the two shows that make up the fair: Modacalzado, the international footwear trade fair, and Iberpiel Marroquineria, the international leathergoods trade fair.

CTC, the French leather and footwear industry research institute in Lyon, are to build a new workshop which will provide a European Leather and Footwear campus.

It may be small but the French leather exhibition, Le Cuir A Paris, Porte de Versailles, April 15-16, attracts the big names when it comes to buying high fashion and quality leather. Tanners, mostly from Europe, exhibited their latest leathers collections for the spring/summer 2005 season.

Leather chemical makers Clariant have announced that as part of their 'Transformation Program', manufacturing activities at the locations Beverley and Selby in the UK will be consolidated into one location.

With inflation receding, China is being accused as the main culprit for the underperforming Turkish economy. Turkish shoe makers, in particular, are agitating for new quotas, stiffer import duties and control over 'false' invoices on Chinese goods that deprive the state of essential revenue and value added tax. Few consider their own low productivity or the mega local taxes forfeited on footwear that tripped blatantly across the border to Russia with the tax-free luggage trade. To be sure, China, once a sleeping dragon and a workhouse, is now more like a fire-breathing engine of global growth. But mature sectors, such as finished leather and fashion garments, compete head-on with China using technology, high productivity and quality, branding and cutting edge marketing strategy.

The contributions of top manufacturers and retailers are acknowledged when the Italian leathergoods industry hands out awards at the Mipel gala dinner held six monthly on the occasion of the Milan fair.

For some time, people have been telling me that overcapacity in the tanning industry is the greatest threat there is to long-term profitability. It has been postulated that if 50% of tanneries were to close, there would be enough business left for the remaining 50% to make a reasonable profit margin.

Liberty Shoes Ltd, the Haryana-based footwear major, are seriously considering acquiring the leather business of Hindustan Lever Ltd (HLL).

Chinese woolskin tanners, Henan Prosper, are already looking to expand capacity at their new tannery located in Henan, China. The existing tannery only went on stream last year but has already reached full capacity of 10,000 woolskins per day. Henan Prosper are currently building a 3,000 sq m extension to the tannery which will be completed by August. The cost of the new extension is estimated to be around US$5 million.

It was a great relief to exhibitors and organisers alike that this year's Asia Pacific Leather Fair was well attended. It is now twenty years since the first event was staged in 1984, outgrowing the original exhibition centre, then the newly-built convention and exhibition centre and finally coming to rest in the greatly extended building overlooking the harbour at Wanchai.

One of the most modern tanneries in southern Africa and the most modern in Zambia, Kabwe Tannery will, hopefully, resume operations.