The 21st annual edition of the India International Leather Fair was held at the Chennai Trade Centre, Nandambakkam, Chennai, from January 31 - February 3.

On January 15, GDS - The Premier Shoe Event held their 7th VIP workshop to mark the 65th Expo Riva Schuh event. 'The direct dialogue here between the industry, retail trade and the international trade press is one of the most important tools for further developing market-oriented strategies that make sense. Only through joint dialogue can constructive and target-oriented concept solutions for the shoe market be developed that take the on-going structural changes and altered consumer behaviour into account. Events of this kind are also indispensable for the further development of trade fair concepts', said Kirstin Deutelmoser, GDS Project Manager since October 1, 2005.

Clariant's Leather Business have launched their new shade card illustrating the latest fashion colours for the forthcoming autumn/winter season 2007/8. The company will give their clients an insight on trends in the shoe, garment, upholstery and accessory markets twice a year. In cooperation with an international trend consultancy, Clariant will be in the fortunate position to be first to present this exclusive information directly to their customers, more than 20 months ahead.

[http://www.ukleather.org] - a new promotional opportunity for the UK Leather manufacturing industry is now up and running. The aim of the site is to * promote UK Leather; * demonstrate the benefits of our industry; * extend your existing marketing activity

Ukraine's State Statistics Committee reports that Ukraine exported leather and leather products worth US$190 million in the first eleven months of 2005, a year-on-year increase of 1.1%. Ukrainian imports of the same types of commodities were '1.6 times higher' year-on-year at US$101 million.

According to daily Bangkok Post, troubled state firm, the Tanning Organisation, is to be shut. The Defence Council resolved in late January to dissolve the organisation, a state enterprise under the Defence Ministry, which has been in financial trouble for many years. The dissolution takes effect from March 31. Chakkrit Intarathat, the defence spokesman, said the Defence Council agreed to a suggestion by the Finance Ministry's committee for the restructuring of state enterprises, that the organisation should cease operation.

Taiwan's government partially lifted a ban on beef imports from the United States in January despite widespread concerns about the possibility of BSE. The move comes after Japan reinstated its own ban on US beef imports due to the discovery of bovine spinal matter in a shipment of US beef. Taiwan's Health Department posted the statement on its official website. Only meat from cows aged 30 months or younger and butchered after April 2005 will be permitted, while high-risk parts will not be allowed to enter the local market. The department warned that the ban would resume again should there be any cases found contravene the regulations.

Lebanon's Central Administration for Statistics reports that Lebanon exported skins, leather and leather products worth US$1.12 million in November 2005, compared with US$1.11 million the previous month. Lebanese imports of the same types of commodities in November 2005 were worth US$4.16 million, as against US$4.66 million in October.

Leather Wise Ltd, UK, realise that understanding the product that a business manufactures, sources or sells is fundamental to ensuring customer satisfaction. Unfortunately, the knowledge required is often lacking (or at best a little shaky!). The directors, Chris Powley-Williams and Amanda Michel, have many years experience of training people from all parts of the leather industry supply chain and are now providing this essential service via Leather Wise.

Kazakhstan's National Statistics Agency reports that the value of livestock production in Kazakhstan in 2005 was US$2.69 billion. The average number of cattle on Kazakh farms in 2005 was 5.44 million head, a year-on-year increase of 4.5%.

A case of BSE had been discovered in Hokkaido, northern Japan. Officials announced that a 64-month-old Holstein cow that died in January was infected with the disease. The Agriculture Ministry said that the carcase would be destroyed, reassuring consumers that it had not entered the food chain. The news comes just days after Japan reintroduced a ban on imports of beef from the US after prohibited spinal material, believed to present a higher risk of carrying BSE, was discovered in a shipment of US beef.

Estonia's Statistical Office reports that Estonia exported raw hides and skins, and leather, worth US$6.69 million in November 2005. Imports of the same types of commodities in November were worth US$4.80 million.

Estonia's Statistical Office reports that the number of cattle on farms in Estonia on December 31 last year was 252,200, compared with 249,800 on the same date in 2004.

Azerbaijan's State Statistics Committee reports that the number of cattle on farms in Azerbaijan at the start of this year was 2.36 million, 1.8% fewer than at the start of 2005, according to the Interfax news agency.

Top export customers for Argentinean hides, wet-blue, crust and finished leather in 2005 were China with 22.48% of the value, followed by the United States with 16.82%. The Netherlands was the largest European destination at 11.68%l. Mexico was next at 10.35% with Italy in fifth place at 8.54%. Thailand, Uruguay, Brazil and Australia were next in line.

Werner Dornscheidt, Messe Düsseldorf, told delegates at the GLS Press Roundtable on January 25 that they have easily exceeded their minimum target of 150 participants. 'Counting 174 exhibitors from 13 nations (Europe and overseas) so far, we can already pride ourselves on having achieved a very remarkable result despite the tight economic situation', he said. 'Furthermore, we assume that registrations will be received right up until the last day.

For summer 2007, Stahl predict that there is unlikely to be one single strong trend. Instead several colour groups will feature equally. However, there will be greater confidence in the use of colour, a trend that will become increasingly recognisable as the season approaches.

Stahl Holdings, through their subsidiary Pielcolor, have acquired full control of Pielcolor Uruguay with effect from 31 December 2005. The deal, concluded with Uruguayan based Pinturas Inca, part of ICI Paints, includes the two subsidiary companies, Colorcuer in Argentina and Pielcolor Chile.

German company Doris John Lederwaren Import will be presenting their new brand Anuschka at the GLS fair in Düsseldorf in March, a range of hand-painted leather handbags and accessories.

We apologise to readers for publishing misinformation about a proposed new tannery in Vietnam which was supplied to us by a news service. We have been asked to publish a disclaimer by ZAO 'Russkaya Kozha', Ryazan, Russia. They write: 'we just read from the Leather Magazine e-mail bulletin the news about our 'announced' plans to set up a tannery in Vietnam. This untrue. Acually we do not have any such plans and we officially beg you to publish a disclaimer.'

Ukraine's State Statistics Committee reports that the production of leather and leather products in Ukraine in 2005 was 8.1% lower than in 2004. In comparison, industrial output in Ukraine last year was 3.1% higher than in 2004.

Ukraine's State Statistics Committee reports that there were 6.7 million head of cattle on farms in Ukraine on January 1 this year, as compared with 7.16 million head on the same date in 2005.

Slovenia's Statistical Office reports that the number of cattle slaughtered in Slovenian slaughterhouses in November 2005 was 28.1% higher than in October and 4.6% lower than in November 2004.

Russia was expected to start lifting its ban on imports of pedigree cattle from Germany on February 1, according to the Interfax news agency. The ban was imposed several years ago following outbreaks of mad cow disease in various European countries. Russia recently resumed imports of pedigree cattle from the Netherlands, Hungary, Austria and Finland.

Russia's State Statistics Committee reports that Russia imported leather footwear worth US$730 million in the first eleven months of 2005, according to the Interfax news agency. Imports from non CIS countries were worth US$692 million, while imports from within the CIS were worth US$38 million.

The Russian government announced a ban on imports of all types of livestock products from Ukraine starting on January 20, according to the Interfax news agency. The ban has been introduced 'as a result of multiple violations of Russian veterinary laws…', said Russia's Agriculture Ministry. The Ministry added that the import ban is aimed at preventing the spread of livestock diseases, and imports of low quality products, into Russia.

Statistics Norway reports that Norway exported raw hides and skins worth US$62.5 million in 2005, a decrease of 8.8% compared with the previous year.

Ireland's Central Statistics Office reports that the number of cattle slaughtered in Ireland in the first eleven months of 2005 was 6.7% lower than in the same period the previous year.

Germany's Federal Statistics Office reports that a total of 3.4 million cattle were commercially slaughtered in Germany in the first eleven months of 2005, a year-on-year decrease of 7.8%. At the beginning of November 2005, there were a total of 12.8 million cattle on German farms.

The Russian Baltic enclave of Kaliningrad is intending to purchase pedigree cattle from Belarus, while Belarus wants to establish meat processing plants with Kaliningrad, according to the Belta news agency.

Valerie Michael and Neil MacGregor have announced their 2006 programme of short courses which build upon the techniques described in The Leatherworking Handbook by Valerie Michael. Courses take place in our Tetbury workshop. The maximum number of students is five, so everyone receives individual tuition. All tools are provided and a range of leathers, hand tools and other materials are available to buy.

Vietnam exported footwear worth US$620 million to the United States in 2005, US$80 million more than planned, according to the Vietnamese News Agency. Of total exports, exports of sports shoes were worth US$393 million.

Statistics South Africa reports that the production of leather and leather products in South Africa in November 2005 was 3.7% lower than in November the previous year. In comparison, the annual increase in industrial output in South Africa in November 2005 was 3.7%.

Slovenia's Statistical Office reports that Slovenia exported leather and leather products worth US$101 million in the first nine months of 2005, compared with US$111 million in the same period the previous year. Slovenian imports of the same types of commodities in the January to September 2005 period were worth US$222 million, as against US$230 million in the corresponding period in 2004.

Slovenia's Statistical Office reports that the production of leather and leather products in Slovenia in the first eleven months of 2005 was 5.7% higher than in the same period the previous year. In comparison, overall industrial output in Slovenia was 2.8% higher year-on-year.

The Slovak Statistical Office reports that Slovakia exported raw hides and skins, and leather and leather products, worth US$115 million in the first ten months of 2005, a year-on-year increase of 15.3%. Slovakia's imports of the same types of commodities were 7.9% higher year-on-year at US$241 million.

Those interested in top-class, international leather goods should not miss out on the premiere of GLS - International Event for Leather Goods & More - in Düsseldorf. Global players in branded products will represent a cross-section of all leathergoods segments from March 5-7, 2006.

The Philippines National Statistics Office reports that the leather industry in the Philippines operated at 82.8% of its total capacity in October 2005, the same figure as in the same month the previous year. In comparison, the manufacturing sector in the Philippines was operating at 80.4% capacity in October 2005.

Kyrgyzstan's State Statistics Committee reports that Kyrgyzstan exported leather and leather products worth US$9.14 million in the first nine months of 2005, compared with US$6.77 million in the same period the previous year.

Jordan's Department of Statistics reports that Jordan exported raw hides and skins, and leather, worth US$5.2 million in the first ten months of 2005, compared with US$3.5 million in the same period the previous year.

Israel's Central Bureau of Statistics reports that Israel exported leather and leather products worth US$15 million in the first eleven months of 2005, as compared with US$11 million in the same period the previous year. Israel imported the same types of commodities worth US$87 million, as against US$71 million in the January to November period in 2004.

BLC Leather Technology Centre Ltd and Leather International have announced a provisional programme for their Footwear Leather Conference to be held March 27, 2006 in the Hong Kong Convention Centre, the day before APLF.

The Czech Statistical Office reports that the production of leather and leather products in the Czech Republic in the first eleven months of 2005 was 4.6% lower than in the same period in 2004. In comparison, overall industrial output in the Czech Republic in the January to November 2005 period was 5.6% higher year-on-year.

Croatia's Central Statistics Bureau reports that labour productivity in the Croatian leather industry in November 2005 was 3.6% lower than in November the previous year. In comparison, labour productivity in Croatian industry as a whole in November was 3.6% higher year-on-year. Overall employment in the leather industry in November was 6.7% lower than in November 2004.

On November 5, 2005, UK-based upholstery leather manufacturers Crest Leathers and Brazilian tanning group Vanzella Couros celebrated the inauguration of their new joint-venture tannery.

Effective January 5, SVR Leathers (Hull) Ltd have sold their plant, machinery and business interests to Claytons. This is a transfer of a going-concern, judged as mutually beneficial by both parties. Steve Reynolds remains in charge of the contract finishing unit at the Beverley address and Claytons of Chesterfield take responsibility for all production activities. The arrangement is one of 'business as usual'. All existing and previous customers of SVR and Claytons are advised that now the administrative burden has been taken from Reynolds, he will have much more time to concentrate on finishing leather.

Vietnamese leather products manufacturers are experiencing a shortage of leather, according to the Vietnamese News Agency (VNA). Demand for tanned leather at footwear factories has almost doubled in the past seven years, from 14.8 million square metres in 1998 to 27.8 million square metres in 2005. Figures from the Trade Ministry indicate that demand will rise to 46.4 million square metres a year by 2010. Vietnamese tanneries have the capacity to meet only 20% of national leather demand, which results in a continuing dependence on imported leather, according to the VNA. Vietnamese tanneries reportedly have a combined production target of just 7.4 million square metres a year by 2010.

SATRA has travelled coast to coast in North America to deliver free seminars to members seeking advice on key footwear issues. The week-long, SATRA USA Roadshow started in Los Angeles, then Dodgeville, Wisconsin, and ended in the snows of Boston, Massachusetts.

The Sanwil artificial leather producer in Poland has signed a contract to supply its products to Ikea, according to the Interfax news agency. The price of Sanwil's shares increased sharply on the Warsaw Stock Exchange following the announcement of the deal.

The Rwandan market is off the board. The export ban has been imposed as of December 31, 2005, and at least until now there is no sign that the government will entertain a revision of their position. The hide and skin exporters in Rwanda have closed down and fired their workers. Prices on the Rwandan raw market have dropped as the tannery is squeezing the suppliers for the last drop of blood. The monopoly seems to work to their advantage at least for now. Things will change as structures fall into place to replace the loss of exports of raw hides and skins from Rwanda.

Russia's State Statistics Committee reports that leather industry companies in Russia had overdue debts on bank loans and credits worth US$3.51 million as of October 1 last year.

Russia's ZAO Russkaya Kozha leather producers are reported to have announced plans to build a large tannery in Vietnam in 2007, according to the Vietnamese News Agency. Footwear manufacturers in Vietnam hope that the new tannery will help improve leather supplies and reduce the price of leather on the Vietnamese market.

Smit & Zoon have announced they are now officially represented by the company Dyeing Tech in Mexico. The agreement was signed at the official opening of Dyeing Tech's new warehouse and office on November 29, 2005.

The forthcoming edition of Le Cuir A Paris will feature a 'Performance Table' in partnership with the French Materio Showroom. The area will present innovative leathers and other materials purely from a technical point of view. Transparent pig leather, anti-heat, thermo chrome (changes colour when touched) and biological leather are just a few examples of the products that will be only display. This area will be in addition to the Trends Gallery which will feature fashion trends in colours and materials for summer 2007.

The 2006 Festival of Leather will take place on Saturday and Sunday July 1-2 at Capel Manor, near Enfield, UK. The first ever Festival of Leather held in 2005 was a truly successful celebration of leather, bringing together the craftsmanship and historical and commercial aspects of the British leather industry within Capel Manor's thirty-acre gardens. The event was well supported by the industry itself and by thousands of visitors, who enjoyed the living history attractions, leather artefacts, design and saddlery competitions, shopping and fashion shows. Organisers promise the 2006 Festival of Leather will be even bigger and better.

Stahl have launched an exciting new website at [http://www.stahl.com]. Completely redesigned in an up-to-date style, information on Stahl companies, products, news and much else is readily available to visitors with just a mouse click or two.

The International Footwear Cooperation Forum (IFCF), held concurrently with APLF 2006 in Hong Kong, is devoted towards a better understanding of how the various groups that make up the global footwear market can benefit each other. It will be held on March 29 at Hong Kong Convention and Exhibition Centre.

Vietnam's Trade Ministry reports growing demand for Vietnamese leather shoes in Canada, according to the Vietnamese News Agency. Vietnamese shoe exports to Canada in 2005 were worth US$75 million, an increase of 55% as compared with the previous year. This means that Canada is now the tenth largest export market for Vietnamese-made footwear.

Ukraine's State Statistics Committee reports that manufacturers of leather and leather products in Ukraine recorded sales worth US$184 million in the first eleven months of last year.

Turkey's State Statistics Institute reports that Turkey imported raw hides and skins, and leather, worth US$434 million in the first eleven months of 2005, a year-on-year fall of 18.9%. Turkey also exported the same types of commodities worth US$79 million in the January to November 2005 period, a year-on-year increase of 2.2%.

Serbia's Statistical Office reports that the production of leather and leather products in Serbia in the first eleven months of 2005 was 1.6% higher than in the same period in 2004. In comparison, industrial output in Serbia in the January to November 2005 period was 0.6% higher year-on-year.

Statistics New Zealand reports that New Zealand exported raw hides and skins, and leather, worth NZ$439 million (US$300 million) in the twelve months to the end of November 2005, a year-on-year decrease of 15%.

Kyrgyzstan's State Statistics Committee reports that the production of leather and leather products in Kyrgyzstan in the first ten months of 2005 was 13.7% lower than in the same period the previous year. In comparison, overall industrial output was 2.2% higher year-on-year.

Croatia's Central Bureau of Statistics reports that the production of leather and leather products in Croatia in the first eleven months of 2005 was 8.8% lower than in the same period in 2004. In comparison, industrial output in Croatia in the January to November 2005 period was 5.2% higher year-on-year.

According to the CTK news agency's Business News, the Czech company Oktopus purchased the assets of the bankrupt CZB (formerly Strojosvit - F. CZ) at an auction in late November. CZB were the only producer of tanning machines in the Czech Republic. The price paid for the assets was said to be US$1.18 million) which was actually higher than the starting price. The report is unconfirmed.

The Ukrainian government says it will temporarily withdraw leather goods from a free trade agreement with Moldova in order to avoid these goods being re-exported, according to the Interfax news agency. The request to withdraw the goods from the agreement was made by Ukrainian leather industry companies. Ukraine exported 8,200 tonnes of leather goods worth US$30.4 million to Moldova in the first half of 2005, of which 8,100 tonnes were exported to Moldova duty-free.

Turkey's State Statistics Office reports that the production of leather and leather products in Turkey in the first ten months of 2005 was 23.9% lower than in the same period the previous year. In comparison, overall manufacturing sector output in Turkey in the January to October period was 4.1% higher year-on-year.

Spain's National Statistics Institute reports that the production of leather and leather products in Spain in October was 14.1% lower than in the same month in 2004. In comparison, production in Spain's manufacturing sector in October was 0.5% lower year-on-year.

Slovenia's Statistical Office reports that the production of leather and leather products in Slovenia in the first ten months of 2005 was 5.3% higher than in the same period the previous year. In comparison, overall industrial output in Slovenia was 2.4% higher year-on-year.

The Slovak Statistical Office reports that Slovakia exported raw hides and skins, and leather and leather products, worth US$92 million in the first nine months of 2005, a year-on-year increase of 5.9%. Slovakia's imports of the same types of commodities were 7.9% higher year-on-year at US$206 million.

Russia's state veterinary and sanitary control service, Rosselkhoznadzor, implemented a ban on livestock imports from eight Brazilian states on December 13 because of the spread of foot-and-mouth disease in Brazil, according to the Interfax news agency. The ban applies to the states of Mato Grosso du Sul, Mato Grosso, Goias, Sao Paulo, Minas Gerais, Parana, Santa Catarina and Ro Grande do Sul.

Latvia's Central Statistical Bureau reports that Latvia exported raw hides and skins, leather and leather products, worth US$1.48 million in October, with 71.2% of exports going to the European Union. Imports of the same types of commodities in October were worth US$3.09 million), with 72.7% of imports coming from the EU.

Kazakhstan's National Statistics Committee reports that the production of leather and leather products in Kazakhstan in the first eleven months of 2005 was 17.7 per cent higher than in the same period the previous year. The value of production in the leather industry in the January to November 2005 period was US$13.1 million.

Kazakhstan's National Statistics Committee reports that the number of cattle on farms in Kazakhstan on November 1, 2005, was 5.65 million head, 5.3% more than on the same date in 2004.

Ireland's Central Statistics Office reports that the production of leather and leather products in Ireland in October was 22% lower than in the same month in 2004. The combined turnover of leather industry companies in October was 30.2% lower year-on-year.

Ireland's Central Statistical Office reports that Ireland imported leather and leather products worth 10.6 million euros in the first nine months of 2005, as compared with 9 million euros in the same period the previous year. Irish exports of the same types of commodities in the January to September period were worth 20.3 million euros, as against 23.1 million euros in the corresponding period in 2004.

Hungary's Central Statistical Office reports that the production of leather and leather products in Hungary in the first ten months of this year was 0.7% higher than in the same period in 2004. Hungarian leather industry companies saw their sales fall by 0.7% year-on-year in the January to October period, including a fall in sales of 24.7% on the domestic Hungarian market and 9.1% higher sales on export markets.

European Union findings on Vietnam

The Czech Statistical Office reports that the production of leather and leather products in the Czech Republic in the first ten months of 2005 was 4.8% lower than in the same period in 2004. In comparison, overall industrial output in the Czech Republic in the January to October period was 5.4% higher year-on-year.

The CTK news agency's Business News has reported analysts in Prague as saying that the Czech leather processing industry is experiencing both declining production and sales. The recession in the industry, resulting from competition from Asian companies, has now lasted several years, they added.

Bosnia and Herzegovina's Federal Statistics Office reports that the production of leather and leather products in Bosnia and Herzegovina in the first eleven months of this year was 5.4% lower than in the same period in 2004. In comparison, overall industrial output in Bosnia and Herzegovina was 6.2% higher year-on-year.

Russia's State Statistics Committee reports that the average monthly wage in the Russian leather industry in September 2005 was US$172), an increase of 25% as compared with the same month the previous year. In comparison, the average gross monthly wage in Russia in September was 26% higher year-on-year at US$306.

The Bureau de Style Chaussure Maroquinerie Cuir have released their Colour and Materials Folder for summer 2007. The folder gives an in-depth analysis of the main consumer influences and presents a preview of the main ready-to-wear trends, colours and materials for the season, before the trade fairs begin.

Amanda Michel and Chris Powley-Williams have launched Leather Wise Ltd to offer problem solving and training services to the leather supply chain. Leather Wise will provide professional problem solving and arbitration services relating to leather and leather products, as well as training courses on all aspects of leather production and use in consumer products.

SIC, organisers of Le Cuir A Paris, have unveiled their new trends for summer 2007. The season is said to arouse the desire for a wider range of materials. Classic fashion themes are forgotten, distant journeys are set aside, dolls and marquises are tucked away in the cupboard, workers and dandies are left by the wayside, and everyone has suddenly become laboratory technicians, research workers, scientists, gardeners, ornithologists and oceanographers.

Stahl Asia, followed shortly by Stahl India, have both been awarded the Oliver Wight MRP2 Class A Certification within a month. Managing director, Rodney Hammond, says: 'An awful lot of people have worked very hard to see that the MRP2 culture has been reintroduced into Stahl Asia. And now the task of being relentless in maintaining the philosophy and practices behind this important Assessment begins.'

Ukraine's State Statistics Committee reports that manufacturers of leather and leather products in Ukraine recorded sales worth US$160 million in the first ten months of 2005. This figure accounted for 0.3% of total sales of industrial goods in Ukraine during the period.

Turkey's State Statistics Institute reports that Turkey imported raw hides and skins, and leather, worth US$397 million in the first ten months of 2005, a year-on-year fall of 19.8%. Turkey also exported the same types of commodities worth US$70 million in the January to October 2005 period, a year-on-year fall of 2.5%.

Serbia's Statistical Office reports that the production of leather and leather products in Serbia in the first ten months of 2005 was 1.1% higher than in the same period in 2004. In comparison, industrial output in Serbia in the January to October 2005 period was 0.3% higher year-on-year.

Statistics New Zealand reports that New Zealand exported raw hides and skins, and leather, worth US$307 million in the twelve months to the end of October, a year-on-year fall of 15.8%.

Latvia's Central Statistical Bureau has reported that its Farm Survey for this year, carried out in August, revealed the existence of 380,300 cattle on farms in Latvia, 0.4% more than in the survey carried out in 2003.

Employers' associations within Hungary's light industry sector say that an agreement signed in late November raising the minimum wage in Hungary by 10% may result in large-scale redundancies among companies in the leather industry, according to the Interfax news agency. Some companies may even be forced to close, said the report.

Croatia's Bureau of Statistics reports that Croatia exported leather and leather products worth US$77 million in the first ten months of this year, a year-on-year fall of 24.%. Croatian imports of the same types of commodities were 0.5% lower year-on-year at US$117 million.

LANXESS Leather Business Unit offers a comprehensive service package that sets new standards for leather industry suppliers worldwide. The world population tops six billion, placing a tremendous burden on the environment and natural resources. By converting hides - organic 'waste products' from the food industry - into leather, tanners help to conserve these resources and protect the environment.

Global brands Adidas, Nike, Timberland and Clarks have signed-up to speak at the Footwear Leather Conference which will be held prior to the APLF show next March.

'Innovations are essential for BASF's profitable growth', emphasised Dr Stefan Marcinowski, member of the board of executive directors and research executive director of BASF, during a press interview in which he presented the company's research strategy. Under the international watchword 'We innovate for growth', BASF are expanding their global research and development activities and investing additional funds into these initiatives. The aims are to stimulate growth from inside the company, increase global research capabilities and build up development centres in the regions.

Evolution of the market, application and cognitive technologies have in recent years significantly modified the requirements that must be met in the production of consumer goods.

Despite the doldrums and tannery closures, a clutch of Turkish leather producers, both garment makers and tanners, are spearheading a survival movement. Istanbul-based Harmanli Deri were an early supporter of International Leather Days and their plush stand featured futuristic designer styles. Furthermore, they never lost sight of exceptional leather quality as a competitive tool. Most rivals rallied behind the Russian piper.

Last year an acute need of raw hides for the local leather industry emerged and that was a reason for buying more raw hides abroad. In particular, imports of cattle hides weighing more than 16kg have risen to 32,500 pieces in 2004 compared with 3,800 pieces the previous year.

Last year, Türkiye had about 1,000 tanneries. During 2005, this dropped to about 400-600 and it is expected the slimmed-down industry will eventually be comprised of just 100 tanneries.&rtreturn;After 1998, some tanneries waited for the good times to roll again but realists accept that 'now is normal'. The eleven specialist tannery zones promised, along with tens of thousands of jobs, proved to be populist fantasies. Istanbul's Tuzla zone has about twelve or fifteen tanneries working and Izmir's Menemen zone has about six or seven. As each has accredited waste treatment plants and is a duty-free trade zone, they have attracted other industries to fill up vacant tanneries. Corlu is the only zone given over almost exclusively to leather processing and has long been working more profitably and steadily to about 70% of capacity.&rtreturn;With leather stocks high everywhere and prices stubbornly unresponsive, there is nothing on which to inflate false hopes for tanners. Pioneer professionals, like Tanatar, Gunduz, Desa, Gunder, Alkan, Akdede and Yesiller, are the names that make up the backbone of Turkish leather. All of these have anticipated and adapted to global factors and have made design and quality core concepts of their business. &rtreturn;Garment exporters such as Pasha Deri, Sen Deri, Harmanli and Jean Guise/Tanatar are also formidable names in leather. Gondemir introduced fur to Türkiye and still pilot this sector well. What characterises the sector is increased diversification. Other articles in this edition (page 22) explain Harmanli's lateral expansion plans, for example. This firm has become so gifted in design and innovation that they now face a mounting problem with pirates and trade name counterfeiters.&rtreturn;What is unchanged is that Turkish tanners are exploiting their mid-market, boutique niche. They cannot compete with mass market Asian garment producers; Europe remains an uncertain, if not stingy, market. So concentrating on mid to high-end quality, which they do well, makes good sense. Alarming credit sales bolster producers who also target the home market.&rtreturn;It is significant that surviving 'names' have finished higher education degrees, speak several languages and use their more qualified resources to counter low-wage competitors. They are as much innovative service companies as they are manufacturers. This distinguishes them from less efficient producers and is one reason the 'big versus small' tussle continues to weaken the leather sector. &rtreturn;Weaker firms shelter under fraternal associations and, when not at cross purposes, insist on solidarity. Big producers simply get on with their business using the superior talent at their disposal. It is larger fry that lament the passing of International Leather Days and the polished, professionalism it once brought to the industry.&rtreturn;Tanneries like Gunduz Kurk process between 6,000 and 7,000 raw lambskins per day and work eleven months of the year. &rtreturn;This is the only way to compete and survive. Yet, even at this level, profits are almost non-existent, single figure margins. &rtreturn;It does not take a genius to understand how aspiring tanneries who once worked half the year at one third of capacity could not turn a profit even with healthy order books. Hence the closures.&rtreturn;Statistics sometimes reinforce gloom but they don't tell the whole story. For example, garment exports, by volume, appear static for the first six months of 2005. However, the value of exports has increased, indicating that prominent firms are becoming better at adding value. But, as has long been the case, what isn't in the statistics is also telling. &rtreturn;Some legitimacy, or reining in, of the luggage trade from Türkiye to Russia was attempted with the 'special invoice' procedure effected between the two countries. But these often record inaccurate (lower) value of goods inwards to Russia. &rtreturn;Laws were enacted about 18 months ago but mainly for trade by air passengers. In a matter of months, TIR and land courier business mushroomed. Russians still come to seaside resorts like Antalya to buy leather jackets to sell on, often to cover the cost of a trip to sunny shores.&rtreturn;So-called 'casual' trade clocks up $2 billion for all categories of non-official leather exports. Bona fide export figures are only one third of the total, at about $1 billion. Both countries have work to do but their efforts still lean to off-the-record trade.&rtreturn;In last year's Türkiye survey, Leather International observed that leather producers would have to be more nimble and outward bound. Some, in fact, bounded out of Türkiye altogether to set up in China and Russia. Tulpan Leather were created from a former bovine tannery north of Moscow by Türkiye's Ismail Boy. Three of Türkiye's volume footwear makers have inaugurated factories in Russia. One is Aymasan, who will trade under their previous Rockland brand name. Muya are also established shoe producers who see promise in manufacturing nearer to the market and eliminating import-export frustrations. &rtreturn;Most of Türkiye's other shoe producers are mom-and-pop endeavours battling lower cost imports. The high-end, more productive makers have a better grasp of the market, employ highly skilled workers and contribute the bulk of $185 million worth of footwear exports. &rtreturn;Shoe leather tanners are working steadily and professionally within their niche. However, an eminent shoe leather tanner, based in Tuzla, was recently rumoured to be eyeing Russia.&rtreturn;The Donmez Group, from Izmir's Menemen tannery zone, closed their tannery in 2004 and relocated to China. They took 15 technicians with them and process doubleface and nappa, and started with about 3,000 skins per day. They had few ideas and did not really know what to expect on their expatriate journey. Antilop is another Turkish name that migrated to China, this time as a leather trader.&rtreturn;Much of this bears out the current thinking about 'old' industries left behind in Europe, whilst the dynamic, innovative ones move east to less developed, but more sprightly markets. But it is wrong to think that cheap labour will continue as the magnet in these fertile hubs. &rtreturn;In fact, developing and nurturing human talent (and retaining it) and maximising people skills will be the next nettle for the global leather industry to grasp. A shortage of talented, specialised entrepreneurs in key manufacturing areas has already sent wages higher.&rtreturn;In October 2005, Türkiye began discussions to become a full member of the European Union. Entry talks caused a stir in Europe but probably will not make much difference to tanners. Despite being a member of the European Customs Union since 1996, globalisation has meant that tariffs, quotas and duties on the free movement of goods still impinge in non-beneficial ways. &rtreturn;Much of Turkish business believes they are already European anyway. More worrisome is Türkiye's current account deficit of $20.7 billion (imports over exports) in the twelve months to last August, one of the largest deficits in the emerging market club.&rtreturn;There are still about 15 tannery machinery producers throughout Türkiye. But only a few, like Ozdersan in Izmir, who specialise in machinery for wool-on processing, can exist by tannery business alone. Most now have mixed business interests. Stalwarts like Yildirim Makina have digressed into other businesses. Türkiye can, nevertheless, offer attractive prices compared with Italy. But market shrinkage has modified machinery makers' expectations, even though they can still attract high profile international customers like Nugget International in Texas and Henan Prosper of China.&rtreturn;For chemical producers, only two domestic and non multi-national firms, Sarchem and Verbo, make their mark in leather business. But even these rely on servicing other sectors, with leather a very small portion of business. &rtreturn;Although still a family-owned business, Sarchem have achieved remarkable success because of their global outlook, committed spending on R&D and skilful international marketing efforts.&rtreturn;Without exception, other chemical firms servicing Turkish tanners are the well-known big pharma, life science and multi-national names. &rtreturn;Cognis, for example, are owned by private equity funds and, in 2004, recorded sales of €3.07 billion and earnings (before audited adjustments) of €362 million.&rtreturn; Türkiye will host IULTCS's second Euro congress from May 24-27, 2006. Cognis' Dr Volkan Candar, with his key global connections, has had a responsible hand in this. For Turkish-based chemical companies, proximity to Russia's estimated €30 million leather chemical potential is a persuasive drawing card. &rtreturn;Russian tanners have had no resident chemical suppliers and, with imports increasingly expensive, LANXESS and Cognis saw an opportunity to form a local partnership, known as Colan, who will supply the whole range of tanning and finishing chemicals direct.&rtreturn;Chemical companies still don't know how they will absorb the extra costs of REACh. And tanners would be ostriches if they did not expect to shoulder some of the burden. What is clear, however, is that the image of tanning is still as a lowly and grubby industry that needs to clean itself up. &rtreturn;Few outside the industry seem to have noticed that many contemporary tanneries put the environment first and in Türkiye professional tanners have been committed to a wholesome image for over a decade.

Leather International recently visited the new generation of the family and found them as versatile and innovative as their seniors. Barmes, under trade name 'Trivia', produce men's high-end footwear and small leather and travel accessories. They are exporting well and working at full capacity after three years in business.

Anybody who wanted to make a buck or two joined the circus. The crash was inevitable. After 1998, many Turkish firms found staying on the bandwagon trickier than actually getting on it. Looking through previous fat leather fair catalogues is an exercise in nostalgia.

federally inspected slaughter figures have improved slightly and are now running at 1.9%. For the four-week period ending November 19, the average weekly kill was 613,000 head.

Changes under discussion to rules and regulations concerning the import of raw hides and skins into China will require importers to pay 5% import duty plus 17% VAT up front from January 1. After re-export 13% VAT will be refunded.

American hide prices have gradually risen since our last report based on a number of factors. Two main reasons were that packers had been able to establish extensive forward sold positions and were not under any pressure to sell each weeks production. Furthermore, the Thanksgiving/Christmas season in the US is the time of lowest beef consumption and, therefore, lowest slaughter of the year which aided packer's ability to turn down lower bids.

Abattoirs were forced to improve the prices paid to farmers for cattle in November and as a consequence kills returned to near normal levels.

Yavuz Group came late to tannery business, catching the crest of the doubleface wave in 1985 when they started exporting raw sheep and lambskins ex-Australia. They rode this wave until its collapse in 1998 but still maintain an office in Sydney.

BLC Leather Technology Centre, a leading light in leather research, run a variety of training courses at their headquarters in Northampton, UK. As a relatively new recruit to the Leather International team, it was decided that it would be a good idea for me to attend a three-day seminar entitled 'a comprehensive understanding of leather'.

The board of Pittards plc is pleased to announce that Jill Williams has been appointed to the group board with effect from November 2, 2005.

The newest members of the Dornbusch sales team, Arne Bonneck and Robert Bruno joined existing staff at Tanning Tech. Bonneck has been employed as sales manager for Eastern Europe and Germany, while Bruno will look after Italy and Asia.

Professor Tony Covington married his long term companion Gill on September 24 at Kelmarsh Hall in Northampton.

Braam Keyser, managing director of Feltex Automotive Leathers, Ladysmith, South Africa, died of a heart attack on October 25. He was only 48.

Bill Carey, a respected member of the hide, skin and leather industry, died in late October. Don Ohsman of Hidenet writes: 'He was 84 and active on a daily basis up until the time of his death. Bill began his long history in the hide industry in 1948-49 at Kaufmann Trading in New York.

Striking workers at Tyson Foods' Lakeside Packers have returned to work and the plant is expected to return to its 20,000/week capacity soon.

Since 2002, Turner have directed most of their R&D efforts and investment towards perfecting vision technology which will identify faults in hides and skins. Last year, they introduced the Selectra automatic grading machine which was designed to identify defects in crust skins, many of the faults not even visible to the naked eye. This year, they went a step further with a 3m version for wet-blue hides, the Selectra WB.

Laseranlage is an innovation in 3D design development. The system allows the user to scan in the details of the leather structure and correct any defects in the leather by computer. These instructions are then sent to a machine containing a laser which burns the required design onto a very hard black rubber which acts like a negative. Laseranlage provides a much faster, precise process for the engraving of printing rollers.

The new X drum system from Pajusco Technologie tannery machines features large shelves in the interior which increase the drum's loading capacity and reduce the quantity of water and chemicals used, making it more cost efficient. The additional shelves mean that the leather is lifted right to the top of the drum.

At Tanning Tech, NBN launched SMARTTAN, a complete equipment line, with gravimetric and volumetric dosing machines, water mixing and dosing machine, drum controller and recipe development and execution software.

Mosconi first introduced their Zenit splitter five years ago and, since then, they have continued to develop it. Now it has evolved into the Super Zenit and they are still finding ways to upgrade the basic technology.

Bergi, leading Italian tannery machine manufacturers, have upgraded and improved two of their machines. Both were presented on the company's stand at the Tanning Tech fair.

Linz are specialists in mixing technology for a variety of industries and two years ago, they turned their attention to the leather industry. The result is an inline crosslinking system specifically developed for the leather industry, enabling the mixing to be done at the production line rather than mixing the catalyst with the crosslinker system elsewhere (up to six components can be mixed). This means that only the right amount of chemicals is mixed and there are no pot life consequences to be considered.

Poletto managed to pack a lot of technology onto their stand in Tanning Tech including their space saving SMEP spraying booth which is available in all stainless steel or with parts coated with a double thickness anti-corrosive coat.

Kodex have formed a commercial partnership with Dascomar who specialise in different ways of printing and embossing leather. At Tanning Tech, Kodex were demonstrating their transfer printing technology on the Dascomar stand. They have been involved with transfer printing on textiles but have now also turned their attention to leather which they say is much more difficult than working with synthetics. However, they made it look very easy with their demonstrations.

Italprogetti have recently developed their polypropelene drums for use in dry processes such as dry milling. Polypropelene has proved to be a highly suitable material for the construction of dry milling drums which are traditionally made from stainless steel. Italprogetti have taken advantage of recently developed anti-static polypropelene which has enabled them to produce a dry milling drum, providing clients with the ideal machine to produce items such as wrinkled leather and stone-washed leather. In the past, these effects were only achievable using an industrial washing machine, which constitutes a large expense for tanners. The advantage of this type of machine is its flexibility as it enables tanners to respond to the latest fashion trends very quickly.

At Tanning Tech, GeMaTa's live demonstrations of their Jumbostar SR 3400 proved very popular and attracted a lot of interest. The roller coater, fitted with the new 'stucco' rollers, showed how it is possible to fill both deep and light defects in the hide with pre base-coat products. The machine had already been sold to Vitapelli, Brazil.

Italian machinery accessory manufacturers Equitan are continually modifying their product range. Their latest novelty, launched at Tanning Tech, is called Microfelt, a 100% synthetic felt for heavy embossing in machines such as Bergi Superpress and Emmezeta Rotopress. The new model is more economical than previous versions as no wool is used. The product has been laboratory tested and is currently on trial in tanneries.

Based on an installation at Boxmark in Austria, Cartigliano were showing a video demonstrating a processing line which measures the leather at the outset and continues to measure at every stage, after the first wet stretch, after table vacuum drying and second wet stretch. Then the leather is conditioned, enters the drying tunnel and is finally staked before being measured again.

Olcina were exhibiting their new Cangilones lab drum which features the well established Cangilones internal configuration of wide and stronger shelves. This allows the hides to slide from shelf to shelf rather than experience a drop which could damage them.

The latest development from tannery machinery specialists Bauce is called Bluepress.

Barnini are specialists in spray finishing plants and offer three different types of spray cabinet, one rotary, one elliptical and one reciprocating. At Tanning Tech they showed their new reciprocating spray cabinet for the first time.

Tannery automation specialists, Feltre, have devised an automatic system for cutting fresh or salted hides. RawCutter was launched on the company's stand during the Tanning Tech show in October.

At Tanning Tech, Aletti Giovanni & Figli were showing their Prima Dry shaving machine with a completely revised grinding device to allow greater precision in shaving. The machine has also been provided with a feeding bench which can be aligned automatically with the blade roller for a higher degree of shaving accuracy.

This same subject has appeared in another trade magazine and I think it may be useful to underline the problem. Some years ago, a tanner somewhere in Europe decided to close shop, sell the premises and just retire. As the tannery had no production problems it had its normal stock of raw hides as well as a normal production reserve of chemicals.

The Leather Guild in Victoria has been an association of people interested in and associated with the leather industry in Australia for about 40 years. It came to an end on October 6. The name implies a craft guild of leather users, especially to Brits, but it was nothing like that. Apart from holding regular technical meetings, social gatherings and seminars, the Guild has been a cohesive force in the Victorian and Australian leather industries.

At the latest edition of Lineapelle, leather itself was kept as natural as possible with grain pattern as well as growth lines very much in evidence. Adornments included feathers, abalone, ivory and flowers crafted from leather.

The Glossary produced by UNIC (Italian Tanners' Association) for the customers of its member tanneries is now available in seven languages. In addition to Italian, English, Spanish, French and Russian, Chinese and Japanese translations have now been added. There are around 250 terms included in the book.

The next edition of Le Cuir A Paris will be held at the earlier time of February 21-24, 2006, and will present the new collections for spring/summer 2007 trends in colours and materials for the fashion and design sectors. In collaboration with the French 'Showroom Matério', the organisers will set up a 'Performance Table' where the most innovative materials with industrial applications, not necessarily related to fashion, will be shown. This will complement the fashion vision proposed in the Trends Gallery.

CTC Groupe, based in Lyon, France, are opening a new European agency in Frankfurt (Germany). CTC Germany will service their German-speaking clients, corresponding directly with the major German companies that market footwear, leathergoods, personal protection equipment and fashion accessories.

From October 17-20, 2005 Clariant's finishing line was given first-hand information about latest product developments, R&D activities and actual status of project-works for different leather types to their worldwide technical staff. 'This unique event reflects our strong commitment to keep our colleagues fully informed about innovations and benefits we are presently working at to face today's needs of our customers', says Dr Michael Kurwan, newly appointed head of PM finishing.

Somerset tannery Pittards, who specialise in technologically advanced leathers, have just announced an order worth several hundred thousand pounds from the British Ministry of Defence for their new military leather.

Turkish chemical producers Toprak unveiled their latest innovations at Tanning Tech. The company produce a range of chemicals under the generic brand-name Arc-en-ciel with beamhouse products through to finishing.

Smit & Zoon have introduced two new syntans that answer to the current market demands and tannery requirements. The first product is a DCD syntan (dicyandiamide), Syntan DR 686. Syntan DR 686 has been designed to take care of the belly area in particular. Syntan DR 686 is very suitable for leathers that have to become round and full. Improving the fullness and tightness in the belly area will decrease cutting waste.

DuPont Chemical Solutions are currently collaborating with Sommer SpA and were sharing their stand at Tanning Tech. They have signed a distribution contract with Sommer who also act as a formulator and technology partner with regional responsibilities.

SilverTeam have been developing a new series of products and leathers which pay particular attention to the tendency for 'natural feeling' and articles free of chrome which the market requires in the belief that they are more ecologically friendly.

At Tanning Tech 2005, Dermochimica presented innovative effects on leather, created using their new range of fatliquors. Innovative chemicals have been created thanks to the continuous research activity of their laboratories and technical staff.

Fashionable leathers finished with modern and environmentally-friendly methods was the focus of Langro Chemie's display at Tanning Tech this year. The company highlighted their entire range of finishing products for shoes and bags, garment, upholstery leather for cars and furniture and nappalan leathers.

Haryana Leather Chemicals, based in New Delhi, were established by Pankaj Jain in 1988, through a joint-venture with Italian company Icap-Sira Chemicals and Polymers. The company's ISO 9001-2000 quality system confirms their commitment to quality and marketing and they have made constant investments in the technology and production processes.

Italian chemical producers Syn-bios pride themselves on enabling tanners to create cutting-edge leathers. The company's stand at Tanning Tech featured many examples of innovative leathers made with the latest product range from Syn-bios.

EXP 3015 has been developed for application in a compact process; it is suitable for use in all processes which require soft and full leather with brilliant dyeing properties.

Chimotan AX is Chimont's solution to the insoluble salts which remain trapped within the fibres of the leather and which are found in many wet-blue hides. They are small crystals of calcium which are difficult to eliminate during retanning.

Stahl Asia have just been presented with a 'Silver Award' in the twentieth yearly ASPA (Annual Safety Performance Award) in Singapore. The awards are made by the Ministry of Manpower for good safety performance in the previous year, in this instance in 2004. Last year, the company received a 'Certificate of Merit' so this year's performance represents a very significant improvement on an already good performance.

In posting their third quarter results, Richina Pacific chairman, John L Walker, said that for the full year 2005, the company were expected to report net profits exceeding their 2004 record of US$8.2 million. This is despite the small loss of US$234,000 for the third quarter of 2005. Revenues for the quarter were US$133.9 million.

Massimo Donda, president of Federcalzature (the Italian shoe trade federation), met his excellency the vice minister of commerce Huang Hai in Beijing on November 9.

Livestock has been badly hit in the northern areas of Pakistan, particularly in Kashmir and NWFP. It will affect the collection of raw hides and cause shortages in supplies for tanneries. According to official sources, $558 million will be needed for the recovery of livestock in these areas with immediate needs for $167 million.

CTC Groupe, France, a worldwide leader in consultancy, inspection and quality control for footwear and leathergoods, has announced the accreditation of its Hong Kong based laboratory CTC Asia Ltd by HOKLAS. The laboratory meets the requirements of the ISO/IEC 17025:1999 standard, General Requirements for the Competence of Testing and Calibration Laboratories.

The British Glove Association is delighted to welcome Marion Kite as a new member. Marion trained in Textiles/ Embroidery at Goldsmiths College School of Art and has been employed at the Victoria & Albert Museum as a textiles conservator for more than 30 years. She is a liveryman of the Worshipful Company of Glovers and a trustee of the Glove Collections Trust. She has also been chairman of the Leather Conservation Centre in Northampton for the past five years and is a trustee of the Museum of Leathercraft. As a fellow of the International Institute of Conservation, Marion has published widely on all aspects of textile conservation including papers on the conservation and care of historic gloves. In addition to all this, she also make hats and accessories.

From March 5-7 2006, Messe Düsseldorf will open its gates for the first edition of GLS-International Event for Leather Goods & More- and will present a comprehensive product range of leather goods by global brand producers. Twenty-two exhibitors have already confirmed their registration for the new event.

Furniture manufacturer Natuzzi third quarter 2005 net sales decreased by 11.1% to €147.2million, as compared to third quarter 2004. During the same period total seats sold decreased by 8.9%. For the first nine months of 2005, net sales were at €479.4 million, down 14.4% from €559.9 million reported for the same period last year, and total seats sold decreased by 12.6% over the same comparable period.