22nd IILF continues to grow

Published: 05 February, 2007

Of one thing there can be no doubt, the Indian International Leather Fair continues to grow. This year, in addition to Hall 1A and 1B and Hall 2 and three hangars (temporary structures), the fair also encompassed the Chennai Trade Centre which is located on the same site but which had not been used for exhibitors before. There were also reports that thirty potential exhibitors had been refused because there was no more room.

Last year there were around 325 participants from both India and overseas. This year this had risen to around 390 (135 from overseas). There is also no shortage of visitors to this exhibition and the halls and hangars were well populated at all times.

The leather sector in India is definitely growing, though this might not be at the speed that some might wish. In his inaugural address, the Union Minister of State for Commerce, Jairam Ramesh told the sector that they needed to double production. He urged the industry divert from niche products to the mass market and look beyond Europe to the USA. He stressed that for the industry to reach the US they would need large-scale expansion. 'State governments need to think how to encourage the industry to think big', he said. While the UK may place an order for 10,000 pairs of shoes, the US would require 100,000-200,000 at a time.

He also said that while every attempt should be made to reach the leather exports target of $7 billion by 2011, job generation was more important. He wanted to see 500,000 new jobs, mainly for women and most of them from the poorer members of society. He told the audience not to simply go after the American dollar, saying that India's share of the market was a mere drop in the bucket and jobs were more important for long term prosperity in the country.

While, undoubtedly, India needs to double production to take a fair share in the global market, it will require a serious adjustment in attitude by the industry which is hampered by traditional values and a resistance to change. However, with the current anti dumping duties being levied by the EU against footwear from China and Vietnam, now is the ideal time for India to forge ahead.

The major chemicals companies have already identified India as a region of growth and are investing there to show their commitment. Most have already established subsidiary companies in the country and are ready and willing to assist the tanners to upgrade their leathers and achieve right first time production which saves hugely on energy, chemicals and effluent treatment.

There were a number of seminars held during the course of the show. On the first full day of the show the morning session included a presentation on American hides. The speakers on 'The USA hide inventory: Benefits of using US cattle hides' were John Reddington, USHSLA, Kelly Meine, Union Hide, Dave Seaver, Swift & Co, and Jay Jensen, Southwest Hide Company. To achieve the zero liquid emissions that are required of them, tanners should seriously considering bulk buying in of wet-blue hides from the US and other sources as these offer not only consistency but eliminate the need for salt preservation which is a huge problem for tannery effluent.

On the afternoon of the second day, presentations included a challenging subject by Dr Tilman Taeger of BASF who concentrated on the effects of REACh which are certain to cause great pain to the chemicals industry. The whole concept of registering chemicals puts at risk specialist niche products because each constituent part needs to be registered and products are often a blend of many ingredients. This will not affect just European chemicals and leather production but also have a knock on effect on those countries which wish to trade with the EU.

Other topics included 'Raw material supply chain management for the leather industry by Dr D Chandramouli, CLRI, and 'Efficient tannery Process' by Joaquin Paez, Olcina.

'India inspireD' was the theme of the pavilion in the foyer of the convention centre, presenting fashion trends and colours in line with European leather industry fairs. The display was coordinated by ITPO (India Trade Promotion Organisation) and CLRI (Central Leather Research Institute) in synergy with the CLE (Council for Leather Exports), the Indian Shoe Federation and the Indian Finished Leather Manufacturers and Exporters Association.

The three themes on display were Minerals which draws inspiration from nature, stones, bark and clouds, Kinetics (black, near black and dark tones) and Metals which gives the whole range of browns a new lease of life.

Following through with the industry's desire to remain at the forefront of fashion, the Modeurop Round Table for spring and summer 2008 was also hosted by India to coincide with IILF. India hosted the Modeurop meeting for the first time seven years ago and it is a matter of great pride for the Indian industry that so many of their leathers are now selected for inclusion in the Modeurop colour card for each season. Of the 19 footwear leathers selected, 17 were from Indian tanneries and nine of the thirteen garment leathers were included this time. In all 512 leathers were considered. Modeurop colours are presented at GDS in Dusseldorf on a huge wall at the entrance to the fair.

For the Modeurop selections the themes were: Vision (light, white, not beige, more grey and silver and black and white. The theme is very modern). Bionic is a mix of biology and technology with greens and browns, new surfaces and metallic finishes. Energy encompasses beautiful colours with new blue shades, strong and full of energy. There are also red hues from orange to pink plus lemon and lime.

The annual fashion show, which has been practically mobbed in days gone by as people did their best to gain entrance, was much reduced this year. From its heyday when it attracted 26 finished goods manufacturers, this year's event mustered only seven companies who were prepared to meet the expense. Nevertheless the show was as professional as ever and the goods as appealing as in the past.

IILF is the time when the industry likes to hand out various awards and this year was no exception. M M Hashim, chairman of KH and former chairman of CLE, was presented with the 'Doyen of the leather industry' award. He received his plaque from Dayanihi Maran, Union Minister for Communications and Information Technology. The gold medal for overall exports went to Superhouse Leathers, Kanpur, and the silver to Farida Shoes Private Ltd, Chennai.

In the finished leather category, with exports of more than US$15 million, a plaque was presented to Allah Dad Tannery, Kanpur, and a certificate of merit to Tata International, Mumbai. The US$5-15 million plaque went to Shafeeq Shameel, Chennai. The US$1-5 million plaque to Everest Tannery (P) Ltd, Kanpur, and certificate to Pacific Leather Private Ltd, Kanpur. Below $1 million, the plaque went to Dhevi Super Leathers, Chennai, and certificate to Deviram Apparels, Chennai.

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