September in Shanghai?

27 October 2008



As I write this the world’s eyes are on the Olympic Games in Beijing and I am waiting hopefully for my Chinese visa so that I can attend the ACLE.I have just received a charming message from Dr Venkatasubramanian Sivakumar who thanks me for apologising for Britain’s past mistreatment of his countrymen. I wrote that this period in India’s history had engendered great tolerance among the Indian people which was part of the glue that holds the Union of India together.


Dr Sivakumar writes that ‘one of the other prime factors uniting our country is our great traditional culture which believes ‘Vasudaiva Kutumbakam’ (This world is one family) – Vishnu Purana.’ Perhaps this sentiment is one that we too easily lose sight of.
There has been more bad news from Italy. I was told recently that a number of tanneries closing for the summer break may not reopen.
And in his latest market report Ron Sauer says: ‘Stories are that in the Santa Croce/Toscana area alone, ten or more tanners will close down in September or have already closed down. The reduced orders and thus income smash already fragile financial situations, leaving a trail of victims. From one well known tannery group alone, 250 workers are in the Cassa Integrazione (on the dole).
Another attack is being made on the leather industry. This time by a company called The Rubber Cow Co. They are not accusing us of killing cows for their leather as some extremists are apt to do, but they are telling people that leather-free fashion makes a difference. They go on to enumerate the ways in which being animal friendly helps to reduce our carbon footprint.
They say that nearly one billion people are under-nourished or starving despite the world producing enough food to feed twice its human population of six billion. But, they say, one third of the grain we grow is fed to farm animals.
While their arguments hold good in an attempt to convert the population into vegetarians, once again, they totally overlook the fact that the leather industry is the clean up gang after the food industry has taken what it wants and the leftovers remain to be disposed of. Of course, if the world does switch from eating meat we will be left with a choice of footwear materials such as rubber, canvas, cork and plastic. In this issue we take a look at one designer who is using cork with leather for a range of bags.
As for plastic, Brazilian company Melissa have the capacity to manufacture 176 million pairs of plastic shoes each year in twelve factories. So why write about plastic shoes and candy scented ones at that? Well, Melissa work with a number of very avant garde designers and their latest collaboration is with none other than the grande dame of British fashion, Vivienne Westwood.
The down side is that Westwood is reprising part of her 2001 winter collection, her classic Mary Jane leather shoes, in plastic for Melissa’s winter 2008 range. For more than three decades Vivienne Westwood has been at the forefront of the fashion world and she has now created two models through her Anglomania brand exclusively for Melissa.
Vivienne Westwood’s collection Anglomania was shown at the Berlin Fashion Week in July with the latest model ‘Melissa Lady Dragon + Vivienne Westwood’ worn by the nineteen models. It is based on a peep toe sandal which Melissa launched in June last year and has been customised by the English designer using the heart and orb motifs from her Anglomania brand. The Lady Dragon, the third Melissa designed by Westwood, will be in shops from March 2009. Moulded from Melissa's signature plastic, the key style is a high-heeled Mary Jane in a range of primary colours. There are flats in black and maroon for the more cautious walker. This may not be a fashion revolution, but the designs are bound to lead with the Westwood name attached.
Shelagh Davy



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